Diagnostics of malfunctions and methods of their elimination (VAZ-2106)

Cause of malfunction	Method of elimination
The car door does not open with the key
Water in the lock cylinder froze, the cylinder is contaminated	1. Warm up the cylinder, heat the key with a lighter flame, lubricate with penetrating lubricant
	2. Treat the larva with a product for defrosting locks
Damage to the cylinder mechanism	Replace the larva
The door does not open with the outside handle
The outer handle rod has broken or become disconnected from the lock lever	Connect the rod. Replace broken plastic parts
Unpleasant smell in the cabin
Moisture and dirt have accumulated under the floor mats	Remove dirt, wash and dry the floor and rugs
Fallen leaves or other debris have entered the interior ventilation system	Clean the air ducts
The seat back does not lock in the set position
The teeth of the backrest lock are broken	Replace the seat frame or, using a chisel, cut off the broken retainer and weld on a new one
The pin connecting the rod to the backrest reinforcement fell out	Insert the pin into place and flare it out
The seat back does not return from the set position
The spring of the adjustment mechanism has broken	Replace the spring
The window handle turns but the glass does not move
The window lift cable broke	Replace the cable
The splines on the handle have broken off	Replace the handle
The bracket has come loose from the drop-down window	Attach the bracket
The window lift handle turns with difficulty
Dirt got under the glass seals, the window lift mechanism is broken or dirty	Clean the seals, lubricate the mechanism or replace it
Door deformation	Straighten or replace the door
The drop glass does not lock
The cable pressure plate has become loose	Tighten the clamp plate mounting screws
When turning the key in the ignition switch, the starter sound is not heard or only the clicks of the traction relay are heard
The battery is discharged or faulty	Charge the battery, checking the level and density of the electrolyte. If the battery does not charge, replace it
Oxidation of battery terminals and wire terminals, weak tightening of terminals	Clean the terminals and the leads. Securely fasten the terminals to the leads, apply plastic grease
The ignition switch is faulty, contacts "30" and "50" do not close	Replace the ignition switch contact part or the lock
Break, oxidation of contacts in the power supply circuit of the starter traction relay	Check the wires and connections in the circuit: battery - terminal "50" of the traction relay
The fastenings of the wire tips connecting the power unit to the body have become loose.	Tighten the wire end caps
The contact bolts and wire tips on the contact bolts of the starter traction relay are oxidized or the nuts securing them are loose	Clean the contacts and tighten the nuts
The traction relay is faulty, there is a break or short circuit in the holding winding, contacts are oxidized	Replace the traction relay
Jamming of the starter armature shaft in the bearings, burning of the collector, hanging or wear of the brushes, inter-turn short circuit in the windings or to "ground"	Repair or replace the starter
The starter works (possibly with a lot of noise), but the crankshaft is motionless or turns jerkily
The freewheel clutch is slipping	Replace the coupling
Breakdown of the drive mechanism, the leash ring, the buffer spring	Replace broken parts
The starter gear or flywheel ring gear teeth are damaged, the ring gear rotates on the flywheel	Replace broken parts
The starter turns the crankshaft with a grinding noise (perhaps after starting the engine you can hear the gear squealing)
Severe wear of the flywheel pinion and ring gear	Replace the drive, flywheel or starter
The gear does not disengage from the ring gear due to a faulty drive, starter relay, ignition switch (contacts "30" and "50" do not open), or starter traction relay	Repair or replace parts and components
The starter pole mounts have become loose, the bearings or journals of the armature shaft are badly worn	Repair or replace the starter
The starter turns the crankshaft, but the engine does not start
The battery is almost discharged, after a few revolutions the crankshaft stops	Charge the battery, check the level and density of the electrolyte, clean the terminals and tighten the fastenings of the wire terminals, replace the battery if necessary
There is no fuel in the tank	Fill up the tank
The fuel lines or fuel filter are clogged, an ice plug has formed in the fuel system. There is no smell of fuel from the exhaust pipe when trying to start the engine	Replace the fuel filter, blow out the fuel lines with compressed air, clean the fuel intake screen, and if possible, warm up the car in a warm garage
The fuel pump is faulty. Fuel is not supplied to the carburetor	Check the pump operation, repair or replace it if necessary
Air suction into the intake manifold through the brake booster, joints and hose connections	Check all connections and eliminate any leaks
High voltage is not supplied to the spark plugs due to loose fit, damage or oxidation of the high voltage wire tips, high voltage terminal of the ignition coil, damage to the wire insulation	Securely fasten the wires, clean the connections, replace the wires or coil if necessary
The order of connecting high-voltage wires to the ignition distributor is violated	Check and connect the wires in the correct order
Spark plugs are oily or damaged	Clean or replace spark plugs, adjust gap between electrodes
Incorrect ignition timing setting	Check the correct setting of the ignition timing angle, adjust if necessary
The contacts of the breaker are oily or burnt, the gap between them is not adjusted	Clean the contacts, adjust the gap
The ignition distributor parts are damaged or out of order: cover, central electrode, contact group, sliding plate bearing, capacitor or resistor	Replace parts or distributor
The Hall sensor or its electrical circuits are faulty (for contactless ignition system)	Check the circuits, replace the sensor
The switch is faulty (for contactless ignition system)	Replace the switch
The ignition coil is faulty	Replace the coil
Low voltage circuit faulty (from the battery to the coil through the ignition switch)	Check the circuit with an ohmmeter, clean off oxidized wire tips, replace the wires or ignition switch if damaged
The valve timing has shifted	Set the phases correctly according to the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft
The carburetor channels or jets are clogged	Wash the carburetor parts, blow out the channels and jets with compressed air
The engine does not start for a long time
No fuel in the carburetor float chamber after a long period of inactivity	Manually pump fuel using the pump lever
Clogged or damaged hoses or fuel lines	Wash the fuel intake screen with solvent, remove kinks in the hoses, blow out the lines with compressed air
The engine starts but immediately stalls or runs erratically
Current leakage through contaminated insulation of high-voltage wires, faulty spark plug insulators	Clean or replace wires, replace faulty spark plugs
Incorrect setting of ignition timing	Adjust the ignition timing
Incorrect gap between breaker contacts	Adjust the gap
Incorrect gap between spark plug electrodes, heavy carbon deposits on spark plug electrodes and insulators	Clean or replace the spark plugs, and set the required gap by bending the side electrode
Wear, contamination or burning of the contacts of the breaker and other elements of the ignition distributor	Clean the parts or replace the distributor
The valve timing is shifted	Set the phases correctly according to the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft
Idle speed adjustment is out of order	Adjust idle speed
Water getting into the carburetor	Remove fuel from the float chamber, drain sediment from the fuel tank. Possible use (according to the instructions) water-binding additives
The carburetor channels and jets are clogged	Wash the carburetor parts in solvent, blow out the channels and jets with compressed air
Insufficient or excessive fuel level in the carburetor float chamber	Adjust the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber
The tightness of the diaphragm of the starting device is broken	Replace the diaphragm
Air suction through leaks in the intake manifold	Eliminate leaks
The idle economizer system is faulty	1. Check and if faulty, replace the solenoid valve control unit (for vehicles with contactless ignition system)
	2. Check and, if faulty, replace the solenoid valve
The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the system	Check the condition of the fuel pump diaphragms. Replace faulty diaphragms. Adjust the pump pusher protrusion
Low idle speed
The carburetor idle speed adjustment is out of adjustment	Adjust idle speed
The fuel level in the carburetor float chamber is high	Adjust the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber
The ignition timing is set incorrectly	Adjust the ignition timing
Clogged idle jets, damaged sealing rubber ring of quality screw	Wash with solvent and blow out the jets, replace the damaged ring
The air filter element is dirty	Replace the filter element
High idle speed
Idle speed adjustment malfunction	Adjust idle speed
The ignition timing is set incorrectly	Adjust the ignition timing
Misalignment, incomplete closing of throttle valves	Eliminate the cause of incomplete closing of the flaps
"Gas" pedal drive not adjusted, no free travel of the "gas" pedal	Adjust the "gas" pedal drive
In winter the engine stalls after starting to move
An ice plug has formed in the carburetor diffuser due to improper installation of the air filter cover or the hot air supply hose slipping off the exhaust manifold bracket	Set the air filter cover to the position corresponding to the hot air supply, secure the hose with a clamp. If possible, warm up the car in a warm garage
Extraneous noises and knocks are heard in the engine
A dull or sharp metallic knocking sound due to:
a) increased clearance in the main or connecting rod bearings, between the thrust half rings and the crankshaft	a) repair the engine
b) insufficient oil pressure	b) troubleshoot the lubrication system
A muffled knock caused by the pistons shifting in the cylinders when they wear heavily against each other	Repair the engine
A chirping sound caused by faults and wear of the valve timing mechanism parts: journals, bearings and camshaft cams, valves and their bushings; increased clearances in the valve drive	Replace worn and damaged parts, adjust valve clearances
A whistling or buzzing sound caused by:
a) loosening or wear of the generator drive belt	a) tighten or replace the belt
b) wear of the coolant pump bearing	b) replace the pump
c) wear of bearings or short circuit of generator windings	c) replace the bearings or the generator assembly
A loud, rumbling sound coming from underneath the vehicle due to damage or burnout of exhaust system components	Replace damaged exhaust system parts
The oil pressure warning light comes on and does not go out
Not enough oil in the engine crankcase	Check the level and add oil if necessary
Foreign particles or jammed oil pump relief valve	Clean the valve, remove the sticking or replace the pump
Oil pressure sensor malfunction	Replace the sensor
Severe wear of oil pump parts	Replace the pump
Severe wear of the crankshaft and camshaft journals, their liners and supports	Repair the engine
The engine warms up slowly
Thermostat is faulty	Replace Thermostat
The electric fan is constantly running due to a faulty electric fan switch sensor	Replace the sensor
When the parking brake lever is released, the wheels are not released
The parking brake drive is not adjusted	Adjust the drive
After a long period of parking, the brake pads "stuck" or froze to the drums	Move the car alone or with someone else's help, releasing the brakes on the wheels. When parking the car for a long time, as well as in winter, brake it by engaging only the gear
The clutch pedal "fails", the clutch does not disengage
Leakage in the cylinder, pipeline or hose of the hydraulic drive system	Replace faulty parts
When pressing the clutch pedal, a noise and creaking sound is heard
Worn release bearing, lack of lubrication in pedal hinge	Replace the bearing, lubricate the pedal axle
Vibration and noise are felt when releasing the clutch pedal
Severe wear, warping of the driven disk, cracks or peeling of the linings, breakage of the torsional vibration damper springs, wear of the windows under the springs	Replace the slave disk
The car jerks when starting off
The driven disk hub is jammed on the splines of the gearbox input shaft	Clean the splines of both parts, remove any burrs with a file. Replace any badly damaged parts. When assembling, apply a thin layer of LSC-15, SHRUS-4 or similar grease to the splines
Grease getting onto the working surfaces of the discs	Wash the disk surfaces with white spirit or gasoline. Eliminate the cause of oiling (oil leak through engine or gearbox seals)
Severe wear, warping of the driven disk, cracks or peeling of the linings, breakage of the torsional vibration damper springs, wear of the windows under the springs	Replace the slave disk
Scoring on the working surfaces of the flywheel or pressure plate	Replace damaged parts
The engine increases its speed, but the car accelerates poorly. The clutch is slipping, there is a smell of overheated friction linings
Oil getting on the working surfaces of the discs	Wash the disk surfaces with white spirit or gasoline. Eliminate the cause of oiling (oil leak through engine or gearbox seals)
Clutch drive sticking	Fix the jam or replace the drive parts
Severe wear, warping and burning of the driven disk linings	Replace the slave disk
The clutch is "leaning" (incomplete shutdown), what makes gear shifting difficult (noise, grinding sound is heard) with a working gearbox
Large clearances in the clutch release drive	Adjust the drive
The driven disk hub is jammed on the splines of the gearbox input shaft	Clean the splines of both parts, remove any burrs with a file. Replace any badly damaged parts. When assembling, apply a thin layer of LSC-15, SHRUS-4 or similar grease to the splines
Scoring on the working surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate, skewing or warping of the pressure plate, wear of the leaf spring, warping of the driven disk	Replace the driven disc or clutch basket assembly
Air has entered the clutch hydraulic system	Bleed the hydraulic system
Fluid leak from the clutch hydraulic system	Fix the leak and bleed the system
The clutch is "slipping" (incomplete clutch engagement)
There are no gaps in the clutch release drive	Adjust the drive
The friction linings of the driven disk are highly worn	Replace the driven disc or clutch basket assembly
Oiling of the friction linings of the driven disk, flywheel surface or clutch pressure plate	Eliminate the causes of oiling. Wash the oiled parts with white spirit
A knocking sound is heard when starting off
Destruction of powertrain supports, rubber-metal suspension joints	Replace faulty parts
The suspension fasteners are loose	Tighten the fasteners
Wear of cardan transmission bearings	Replace the bearings
There is a large gap in the engagement of gears or bearings of the main transmission	Repair the rear axle gearbox
There is a large gap in the splined connection of the front propeller shaft	Replace worn parts
The fastening of the cardan shaft to the flange of the rear axle gearbox has become loose	Tighten the connection
Difficulty shifting gears
The clutch is "leaning"	See above
Gear shift lever spherical joint sticking	Remove burrs from rubbing surfaces
The movement of the sliding clutch along the splines of the synchronizer hub in the gearbox is difficult	Clean the parts from dirt, remove burrs
Deformation of gear selection mechanism parts, loosening of shift fork fastening on rods	Replace parts, tighten fork fixing bolts
Gears spontaneously disengage ("fly out") or engage unclearly
Wear of gear shift drive parts: balls, rods, rod seats, retainer springs	Replace worn parts
Severe wear of the working surfaces of the gear shift forks	Replace worn parts
Severe wear of splines on clutches, gears or synchronizer hubs	Replace worn parts
Wear of synchronizer locking rings	Replace worn parts
Synchronizer spring failure	Replace broken springs
The gearbox is making a lot of noise
Not enough oil in the crankcase	Check the level, top up the oil
Wear of bearings, gear teeth and synchronizers	Replace worn parts
The engine does not develop full power, the car jerks, low throttle response
The throttle valve does not open fully	Adjust the damper drive
The air filter element is dirty	Replace the filter element
Heavy carbon deposits, incorrect spark plug gap, damage to high-voltage wire insulation	Clean or replace spark plugs, adjust gap between electrodes, replace damaged wires
The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the system	Check the condition of the pump diaphragms. Replace faulty diaphragms. Adjust the pusher protrusion
The valve timing is shifted	Set the phases correctly according to the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft
Air suction through leaks in the intake manifold	Restore the tightness of the connections
Incorrect ignition timing setting	Adjust the ignition timing
Incorrect gap between breaker contacts	Adjust the gap
Wear, contamination or burning of the contacts of the breaker and other elements of the ignition distributor	Clean the parts or replace the distributor
The Hall sensor or its electrical circuits are faulty (for contactless ignition system)	Check the circuits, replace the sensor
The switch is faulty (for contactless ignition system)	Replace the switch
The carburetor channels and jets are clogged	Wash the carburetor parts in solvent, blow out the channels and jets with compressed air
Insufficient or excessive fuel level in the carburetor float chamber	Adjust the fuel level in the carburetor float chamber
General severe engine wear, low or uneven compression in the cylinders, stuck piston rings, wear or damage to valves, their bushings and seats, wear of the camshaft cams	Repair the engine
The engine gets very hot
The electric fan of the cooling system does not work	Check the power supply circuits and the electric fan itself, restore power supply or replace the electric fan
Low fluid in the cooling system	Top up the fluid, check the cooling system for leaks
Thermostat is faulty (the temperature at the bottom of the radiator is low)	Replace Thermostat
The outer surface of the radiator is dirty	Rinse the radiator from the outside with a jet of water or blow it out with compressed air
Large deposits of scale and corrosion products on the internal surfaces of the cooling system	Flush the cooling system with special preparations according to the instructions for their use
Incorrect ignition timing setting	Adjust the ignition timing
Low octane number of fuel poured into the tank	Use only recommended fuel
Large carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, piston crowns and valve plates	Eliminate the cause of heavy carbon deposits, clean the parts, use high-quality motor oil
Insufficient tension of the coolant pump drive belt	Adjust the belt tension
The radiator cap valve is faulty	Replace the plug
Coolant pump is faulty	Replace the pump
The engine detonates (a loud knocking sound that occurs during acceleration and disappears when the gas is released)
Low octane number of fuel poured into the tank	Use only recommended fuel
Large carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, piston crowns and valve plates	Eliminate the cause of heavy carbon deposits, clean the parts, use high-quality motor oil
Engine overheating	Eliminate engine overheating (see above)
The ignition timing is set incorrectly (too early ignition)	Adjust the ignition timing
The steering wheel turns with difficulty
Low tire pressure in front wheels	Adjust the tire pressure to the correct level
Incorrect front wheel alignment angles	Adjust the angles
Low or no oil in the steering gear	After eliminating the cause of the leak, add oil
Deformation of suspension parts	Repair or replace damaged parts
The worm gear in the steering gearbox is incorrectly adjusted	Adjust the gear engagement in the gearbox
Excessive tightening of the pendulum arm axle adjusting nut	Adjust the tightening of the nut
Corroded steering rod ball joints or front suspension ball joints	Replace damaged parts
Increased steering wheel play
There is a large gap in the worm gear of the steering gear reducer	Adjust the gear engagement in the gearbox
The steering gear has become loose from the body	Tighten the mounting nuts
Increased play in front wheel bearings	Adjust the bearing clearances
Wear of the pendulum arm bushings	Replace bushings or install a pendulum mechanism with rolling bearings
Wear of ball joint parts	Replace worn parts
Noise and knocking when driving on a smooth road
Using winter, studded and all-terrain tires on clean asphalt	Use tires according to road conditions
Wear of wheel hub bearings	Replace the bearings
Loosening wheel mounting bolts	Tighten the wheel bolts
Worn rubber-metal hinges of suspension arms	Replace the hinges or levers
Wear of bearings, gear teeth of the rear axle gearbox	Repair or replace the gearbox
Wear of rear axle half-shaft bearings	Replace the axle shafts
Wear of the intermediate support bearing of the propeller shaft	Replace the bearing
Clicking and noise when turning the car
Wheel bearing wear	Replace the bearings
Loose wheel bolts or hub nuts	Tighten the fasteners
Loosening of suspension fasteners, as well as fastening of the steering gear, steering wheel, steering column bracket	Tighten the fasteners
Steering gear malfunction	Repair or replace the steering gear
Wear or damage to differential components	Replace worn or damaged parts
The rubber-metal hinges of the front and rear suspensions are worn out or damaged	Replace damaged parts
Wear of the front suspension ball joints	Replace worn parts
Destruction of rubber cushions of the stabilizer bar	Replace the pillows
Vibrations when the car is moving
Front wheel imbalance, deformation or uneven tire wear, tread separation	Replace defective tires, balance wheels
Severe wear of wheel bearings	Replace the bearings
Loosening of suspension fasteners	Tighten the fasteners
Wear of the intermediate support bearing of the propeller shaft or loosening of the support fastening	Replace the bearing or tighten the support mount
The fastening of the cardan shaft to the flange of the gearbox tail has become loose	Tighten the driveshaft mount
Deformation of the cardan shaft, loss of its balancing weights	Replace the driveshaft
Vehicle deviation from straight-line motion
Different pressure in the front tires or different degrees of wear	Equalize tire pressure, install tires with the same degree of wear
Wheel alignment angles violation	Adjust the wheel alignment angles
Braking of the front or rear wheel	Eliminate lag
Deformation or breakage of suspension parts, wear of rubber-metal hinges	Repair or replace warped or worn parts
Vibrations, grinding and creaking when braking
Deformation, corrosion or scoring of the working surfaces of brake discs or drums	Replace brake discs or drums (in pairs on each axis)
Oiling, complete wear of the linings or inclusion of foreign particles in them	Replace the pads after first eliminating the cause of the oiling
Weakening or breakage of the rear wheel brake shoe tension spring	Replace the spring
Car pulls away when braking
Oiling of brake pads	Eliminate the cause of oiling, clean or replace brake pads
Incorrect drive adjustment or pressure regulator malfunction	Adjust the drive or replace the pressure regulator, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Wheel alignment angles are disturbed, tire wear varies	Adjust wheel alignment angles, install tires with equal wear
The piston is stuck in the working brake cylinder of one of the wheels	Replace the slave cylinder, bleed the hydraulic drive system
One of the brake system circuits is not working effectively (leakage or collapse of the pipeline)	Restore the circuit's functionality, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Insufficient braking efficiency
Using summer tires in winter	Use tires according to the season of use
Overheating of brake mechanisms	Stop the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool.
Oiling of brake pads	Eliminate the cause of oiling, clean or replace brake pads
Complete wear of brake shoe linings (accompanied by a creaking or grinding sound)	Replace the pads. If there are any scuffs on the disc or drum, replace these parts as well
The pressure regulator drive is incorrectly adjusted or the regulator is faulty	Adjust the pressure regulator drive, replace the faulty regulator, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Piston sticking in the working brake cylinder	Replace the slave cylinder, bleed the hydraulic drive system
One of the brake system circuits is not working (hose rupture or pipeline collapse)	Restore the circuit's functionality by replacing parts, bleed the hydraulic drive system
The vacuum booster is faulty or the tightness of its hose connections is broken	Check the hose connections, replace the vacuum booster if necessary, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Air entering the brake hydraulic system (soft pedal)	Remove air by bleeding the brake hydraulic system
Leakage in the hydraulic brake system	Tighten the connections, eliminate leaks, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Incomplete release of the wheels
There is no free travel of the brake pedal	Adjust the pedal free play
The vacuum booster rod protrusion is not adjusted	Adjust the rod protrusion
Seizure of pistons in the main or working cylinders due to corrosion or swelling of the cuffs	Replace the cylinders as a whole, replace the brake fluid, bleed the hydraulic drive system
Seizure of brake pads due to corrosion and contamination (weakening or breakage of the springs of the brake pads of the rear wheels)	Remove the pads, clean the brake mechanisms (replace the spring if necessary)
The compensation hole in the master brake cylinder is clogged	Clean the hole, bleed the hydraulic system
The car sways when driving, rolls heavily when turning
Front and/or rear shock absorbers are faulty	Replace faulty shock absorbers in pairs
Deformation of the anti-roll bar, destruction of its rubber pads or mounting brackets	Replace damaged parts
Rapid drop in coolant level
Damage to the radiator, hoses, weakening of their connections with pipes	Eliminate leaks in connections, replace damaged parts
Damage to the cylinder head gasket, the block itself or the head	Replace damaged parts
Worn or damaged coolant pump seal	Replace the pump
Rapid drop in brake fluid level
Leaky seals of working cylinders or pipeline connections, traces of liquid are visible near the leak site	Replace the faulty slave cylinder, restore the tightness of the connections
The main brake cylinder seals are leaking, the fluid is flowing into the vacuum booster cavity, no traces of it are visible	After removing the master cylinder and making sure there is a leak, replace it. Before installing the cylinder, remove the vacuum booster and drain the fluid from it
The heater electric fan does not work
Poor contact in wire connections, fuse blown	Replace the fuse, restore the connections
The heater mode switch is faulty	Replace the switch
The heater motor is faulty	Replace the electric motor
The heater electric fan only operates at one speed
The switch is faulty or the additional resistor is burnt out	Replace the switch or resistor
Windscreen wiper motor does not work, bimetallic fuse does not trip, fuse in the unit is not blown
The wiring connections or steering column switch are faulty	Restore connections or replace switch
Gear motor faulty	Replace the gear motor
Windscreen wiper motor does not work, bimetal fuse trips or fuse in the unit blows
Short circuit in the winding of the gear motor	Replace the gear motor
The brushes are frozen to the glass or a foreign object has gotten into the lever mechanism	Remove any obstruction to the mechanism's movement
The windshield wiper does not work in intermittent mode
The relay or switch is faulty	Replace faulty components
Windshield wiper does not stop in intermittent mode
The relay is faulty	Replace the relay
The contacts in the gear motor are faulty	Clean, bend contacts or replace the gear motor
Windscreen wipers stop in random positions
The crank nut has come loose	After installing the crank, tighten the nut
The contacts in the gear motor are faulty	Replace the gear motor
Windscreen wipers are not working in sync
Loosening of the brush leash on the shaft	Once the brush is in the desired position, tighten the leash nut
The electric motor runs but the wiper blades do not move
Loosening the gearmotor crank mounting nut	Once the crank is in the desired position, tighten its nut
Destruction of the gear motor gear	Replace the gear motor
The battery charge indicator light is on. The network voltage is below 13.2 V
The alternator drive belt has broken or become loose	Replace or tighten the belt
Defective: voltage regulator, rectifier unit or excitation winding power supply diodes	Replace faulty parts
Open or short circuit in the generator windings	Replace the stator, rotor or generator assembly
Battery charge indicator lamp does not light. Battery is discharged. Instruments work
The control lamp has burned out or there is a break in its power supply circuit	Replace the lamp or repair the connections
The generator brushes are worn out or stuck, the contact rings are dirty	Replace the brush holder with brushes, clean the contact rings with fine-grained sandpaper, wipe with a cloth soaked in solvent
The wire from the generator terminal "67" has become disconnected	Connect the wire to the terminal
The voltage regulator and rectifier unit are damaged	Replace faulty components
The battery charge indicator light is on when the engine is running, the battery is being recharged
The voltage regulator is faulty	Replace the voltage regulator
The battery charge indicator lamp does not light when the ignition is turned on. The instruments do not work
Fuse F10 or F9 has blown	Replace the blown fuse
There is a break in the power supply circuit of the instrument cluster or from the ignition switch to the fuse box	Restore connection
The ignition switch is faulty	Replace the faulty contact group or the lock assembly
The headlights, lanterns or lampshades do not light
The light bulbs burned out	Replace the bulbs
The fuses have blown	Replace the fuses
Relays or switches are faulty (switches)	Replace faulty components
The wires and their connections are damaged	Restore connections
The direction indicator lamp flashes at double speed
One of the turn signal bulbs has burned out	Replace the lamp
The parking brake does not hold well
The brake drive is not adjusted	Adjust the drive
Drive cables get stuck in the casings	Lubricate the cables with penetrating lubricant; replace them if there is severe corrosion or other damage
Water is leaking into the cabin
The position of the doors in the body openings is not adjusted	Adjust the position of the doors
The seal is loose or damaged	Tighten or replace the seal
The door does not open with the inside handle
The handle lever is broken	Replace the handle
Insufficient thrust travel	Adjust the position of the inner handle
Uneven and rapid wear of tire tread
Wheel alignment angles are incorrect	Adjust the installation angles
Increased wheel imbalance, rim deformation	Balance or replace the wheel
Increased play in the steering and suspension, heavily worn wheel bearings, faulty shock absorbers	Eliminate faults, replace parts and components if necessary
High fuel consumption
Increased mechanical and aerodynamic resistance to movement: vehicle overload, low tire pressure, use of tires with winter or all-terrain tread pattern, installation of roof racks, various spoilers and shields, opening windows at high speed	Avoid these factors if possible
"Sporty" driving style with sharp acceleration, constant movement at high speed	Reduce your speed and try to maintain a calm driving style
The rear brake shoes rub against the drums due to an unadjusted parking brake drive	Adjust the parking brake drive
The front wheel alignment angles are incorrect	Adjust the wheel alignment angles
Energy-intensive consumers are often used: high-power sound speakers, electric heating devices, additional lighting equipment	Try to reduce energy consumption in your car
In the engine and gearbox, high-viscosity oils are used in the cold season	Use oil that is appropriate for the climate conditions
For other reasons for increased fuel consumption, see above: "The engine does not develop power, the car jerks, the throttle response is low"
High engine oil consumption
Oil leakage through worn crankshaft seals, valve stem seals, damaged oil pan gaskets and cylinder head covers	Replace worn and damaged parts, clean the crankcase ventilation system
General severe wear of cylinder-piston group parts and valve timing mechanism	Repair the engine
Gearbox oil leak
Wear of primary or secondary shaft seals	Replace the seals
The drain plug is not tightly screwed in	Screw the cap on securely
Oil leak from rear axle
Wear of axle shaft seals	Replace the seals
Wear of the pinion seal	Replace the seal
The drain plug is not tightly screwed in	Screw the cap on securely
The rear axle breather is clogged	By rotating the cap, clean the breather
Working fluid is leaking from the suspension shock absorbers
Shock absorber seals are faulty	Replace the shock absorbers
Brake fluid is leaking
The hydraulic drive is leaking	Eliminate leaks, replace defective components, top up brake fluid and bleed the hydraulic drive