Warning! Replacing or repairing suspension parts may result in changes in wheel alignment angles, so checking wheel alignment angles is mandatory.
For a new, tested vehicle in running order with a payload of 3136 N (320 kgf) [4 people and 392 N (40 kgf) of cargo in the trunk], the front wheel alignment angles should be as follows:
- camber…..0°±30'
- toe-in…..(0±1) mm
- longitudinal tilt angle of the rotation axis…..1°30'±30'
Before adjusting the wheel alignment angles, check the following:
- tire pressure;
- radial and axial runout of wheel disks: axial should not exceed 1 mm, radial – 0.7 mm;
- free play (backlash) of the steering wheel;
- free play (play) in the front wheel hub bearings;
- technical condition of suspension parts and units (absence of deformation, destruction and wear of rubber-metal hinges, unacceptable settlement of the upper support of the suspension strut).
[The original can be found on the website: VAZBOOK.RU]
Correct any detected faults.
After installing the car on the stand, immediately before checking the corners, "squeeze" the car's suspension, applying 2-3 times a force of 392-490 N (40-50 kgf), directed from top to bottom, first on the rear bumper, and then on the front one. In this case, the car's wheels should be parallel to the longitudinal axis of the car.
When checking and adjusting wheel alignment angles, first check and adjust the caster angle, then the camber angle, and lastly the toe-in.
The longitudinal tilt angle of the pivot axis. If the angle does not correspond to the data given above, change the number of adjusting washers installed at both ends of the suspension struts. To increase the longitudinal tilt angle of the steering axis, reduce the number of washers on the strut in its front or rear part. And vice versa, to decrease the angle, add a number of washers, but only in the rear part of the strut, since this is not always possible in the front due to the short threaded part of the strut. When changing the number of washers on the strut, make sure that the chamfers on the washers are facing the thrust end of the strut. Follow the same rule when installing the inner thrust washer of the rubber-metal hinge when the adjusting washers are completely removed. If these requirements are not met, the tightening of the strut mounting nuts may be weakened.
The number of adjusting washers on the strut should not be more than two in front and four in the back.
In order to prevent the position of the tension rod relative to the suspension arm from changing when adjusting the longitudinal tilt of the pivot axis, use a special device that fixes the tension rod relative to the arm and thus prevents the tension rod from turning under the force of tightening the nut that secures the tension rod to the arm. This requirement must be observed to prevent premature wear of the rubber-metal hinge and rubber cushion on which the ends of the tension rod rest. When installing or removing one adjusting washer, the longitudinal tilt angle of the pivot axis changes by approximately 19'.
Front suspension assembly: A – control size; 1 – telescopic stand; 2 – nut; 3 – eccentric bolt; 4 – nut; 5 – steering knuckle; 6 – front wheel drive shaft; 7 – hinge protective cover; 8 – outer shaft joint; 9 – lower arm; 10 – ball joint; 11 – decorative wheel disc (cap); 12 – hub; 13 – brake disc; 14 – protective cover; 15 – rotary lever; 16 – lower support cup; 17 – suspension spring; 18 – protective cover for telescopic stand; 19 – compression stroke buffer; 20 – upper support cup; 21 – Upper support bearing; 22 – upper support of the rack
Front wheel camber angle. If the camber angle differs from the norm, adjust it. To do this, loosen the nuts of the upper and lower bolts and, turning the upper adjusting bolt 3 (see Fig.), set the required camber angle. After completing the adjustment, tighten the nuts to a torque of 88.2 N·m (9 kgf·m).
Steering gear assembly with drive: 1 – steering rod end; 2 – ball joint of the tip; 3 – rotary lever; 4 – lock nut; 5 – traction; 6 – bolts for fastening the steering rods to the rack; 7 – inner tie rod ends; 8 – steering gear mounting bracket; 9 – steering gear support; 10 – protective cover; 11 – locking plate; 12 – connecting plate; 13 – rubber-metal hinge; 14 – damping rings; 15 – rack support sleeve; 16 – rack; 17 – steering gear housing; 18 – tension bolt; 19 – elastic coupling flange; 20 – roller bearing; 21 – drive gear; 22 – ball bearing; 23 – retaining ring; 24 – protective washer; 25 – sealing ring; 26 – bearing nut; 27 – intermediate steering shaft; 28 – boot; 29 – protective cap; 30 – stop sealing ring; 31 – rack stop; 32 – spring; 33 – stop nut; 34 – retaining ring of the stop nut; 35 – plug; 36 – liner spring; 37 – ball joint insert; 38 – ball pin; 39 – protective cap; A, B – marks on the dust cover and crankcase; C, D – surfaces on the ball joint and the pivot arm.
Front wheel alignment. If the toe-in is not correct, loosen the locknuts 4 by rotating the rods 5 (see Fig.), set the required toe-in. Then make sure that plane C of the ball joint 2 is parallel to plane D of the support surface of the pivot arm 3, then tighten the locknuts 4 to the torque specified here.