If you experience play or noise while driving while rocking a suspended wheel, the hub bearing may be faulty.
Helpful advice: If there is increased play in the wheel, loosen the hub nut and check its tightening torque. If the torque is less required, try tightening the nut to the required torque and lock it. If there is no play, the bearing can work for some time.
You will need: a 27 mm wrench, a mandrel for replacing the hub bearing.
Helpful Hint: If you don't have a mandrel, you can use the rings from an old bearing.
1. Remove the protective cap and loosen the hub nut.
2. Loosen the wheel mounting bolts and hub nut. The hub nut is tightened with a high torque, so it is recommended to use, for example, a piece of pipe as a lever.
3. Engage 1st gear and place chocks under the front wheels. Raise and securely support the rear of the vehicle.
4. Remove the appropriate wheel, brake drum and brake shoes (see "Replacing rear brake pads").
5. Completely unscrew the hub nut and remove the thrust washer.
6. Install the puller and press the hub off the journal.
7. Clamp the hub in a vice and remove the retaining ring from it.
8. Using a puller, press the bearing out of the hub, clean the inside of the hub, press in a new bearing and install the retaining ring.
9. Press the hub onto the journal using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the inner bearing race. Then install the shoes, brake drum and wheel.
10. Finally tighten the hub nut in the same way as the wheel bolts, with the vehicle on the ground (replace the hub nut with a new one or with a nut from another wheel so that the old, crushed parts of the nut flange do not fall into the groove on the trunnion tail when punching).
11. After final tightening of the hub nut, lock it and install the protective cap.
