If, when the wheel is suspended, there is play or noise during movement, the hub bearing may have failed.
Helpful advice. With increased play in the wheel, unlock the hub nut and check the torque of its tightening. If the moment is less required, try to tighten the nut to the required torque and lock it. In the absence of play, the bearing can work for some time.
You will need: key «27», mandrel for replacing the wheel bearing.
Helpful advice. In the absence of a mandrel, you can use the rings of the old bearing.
1. Remove the protective cap and unlock the hub nut.
2. Loosen the wheel bolts and hub nuts. The hub nut is tightened with a large torque, so it is recommended to use, for example, a piece of pipe as a lever.
3. Engage 1st gear and chock the front wheels. Raise and secure the rear of the vehicle.
4. Remove the relevant wheel, brake drum and brake pads (see «Replacing the rear brake pads»).
5. Unscrew the hub nut completely and remove the thrust washer.
6. Install the puller and press the hub off the pin.
7. Clamp a nave in a vise and take out from it a lock ring.
8. Using a puller, press the bearing out of the hub, clean the inner cavity of the hub, press in a new bearing and install the circlip.
9. Press the hub onto the trunnion using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the bearing inner race. Then install the shoes, brake drum and wheel.
10. Final tighten the hub nut in the same way as the wheel bolts with the vehicle on the ground (replace the hub nut with a new one or with a nut from another wheel so that the old jammed parts of the nut shoulder do not fall into the groove on the trunnion shank when punching).
11. After the final tightening of the hub nut, lock it and install the protective cap.