Body malfunctions
Cause of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
Car door won't open with key | |
1. Water froze in the door lock cylinder (winter), pollution larvae 2. Damage to the cylinder mechanism of the door |
1. Warm up the door lock cylinder, heat the key with a lighter flame, lubricate with penetrating grease 2. Replace the door lock cylinder |
The door does not open with the outside handle | |
1. Outer door handle link disconnected from lock lever 2. Deformation of the external drive lever, jamming of parts |
1. Replace plastic door tie rod end 2. Straighten the lever, lubricate the door lock mechanism |
Unpleasant smell in the cabin | |
1. Dirt has accumulated under the floor mats 2. Fallen leaves or other debris entered the cabin ventilation system |
1. Remove dirt, wash floor and rugs 2. Clean the interior ventilation ducts |
Seat back not locked in position | |
Seat back latch teeth broken | Replace entire frame or seat |
Seat back won't return from preset position | |
Faulty seat back adjustment mechanism | Replace damaged and worn seat parts |
The seat is not adjustable | |
Breakage of the mechanism for adjusting the seatback tilt or wear of the sled | Replace damaged and worn parts of the seatback or sled |
Window lifter handle rotates, but window is still | |
1. Broken power window cable 2. The slots on the power window handle broke off 3. The clip came off the glass frame |
1. Replace the power window cable 2. Replace the power window handle 3. Replace glass assembly with clip |
Window lifter handle is difficult to turn | |
1. Breakage or contamination of the power window mechanism, dirt got under the glass seals 2. Door deformation |
1. Clean the seals, lubricate the power window mechanism or replace it 2. Straighten or replace the door |
Sliding glass not fixed | |
1. Loose fastening of the window cable pressure plate 2. Broken window brake |
1. Replace window regulator 2. Replace power window |
Water is leaking into the car | |
1. The position of the doors in the openings of the body is not adjusted 2. Loose or damaged glass seal |
1. Adjust the position of the doors in the openings of the body 2. Put on or replace the glass seal tightly |
The door does not open with the inside handle | |
1. Broken door handle lever 2. Insufficient stroke of the door handle |
1. Replace the handle 2. Adjust the position of the inner handle |
Starter malfunctions
Cause of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
When turning the ignition key, the starter sound is not audible or only clicks are heard | |
1. Battery is low 2. Oxidized or jumped off the terminals from the battery terminals 3. The ignition lock is faulty, the wire is disconnected from the output «50» traction relay starter or ignition switch 4. The starter is faulty: the contacts of the traction relay or wires are oxidized, poor contact with «weight», short circuit or break in the retracting winding, shaft seizing in bearings, burning of the collector, hanging or wear of the brushes, interturn short circuit in the windings or on «mass» |
1. Charge the battery by checking the electrolyte level and density. If the battery does not charge, replace it 2. Clean the surface of the battery, strip the leads and terminals. Lubricate and securely fasten the terminals on the battery terminals 3. Re-establish the connection, if necessary, replace the ignition switch 4. Clean starter contacts, repair or replace starter |
starter running (possibly with a lot of noise), but the crankshaft is stationary or turns jerky | |
1. The freewheel slips, the planetary gear is damaged (if he is) 2. Breakage of the drive mechanism, driving ring or buffer spring 3. Damaged starter gear or teeth of the flywheel crown, the crown rotates on the flywheel |
1. Repair or replace the starter 2. Repair or replace the starter 3. Replace parts or starter |
The starter rotates the crankshaft with a grinding sound, gears may squeal after starting the engine | |
1. Strong wear of the gear and flywheel ring 2. The gear does not disengage from the crown due to a malfunction of the drive, switch relay or ignition switch (contacts do not open «30» and «50») 3. The fastening of the starter poles is loose, the shaft bearings are worn out, the planetary gear is damaged (if he is) |
1. Replace drive, flywheel or starter 2. Repair or replace parts and assemblies 3. Repair or replace the starter |
Engine malfunctions
Cause of engine failure | Engine Troubleshooting Method |
The starter turns the crankshaft, but the engine does not start | |
1. There is no fuel in the gas tank 2. The battery is almost empty, after a few revolutions the crankshaft stops 3. Clogged fuel lines or fuel filter, an ice plug has formed in the engine power system (winter). From the exhaust pipe when trying to start the engine does not smell of gasoline 4. The fuel pump fuse is blown, the fuel pump power circuit is damaged, the fuel pump itself or its relay is damaged (the sound of the fuel pump running is not audible) 5. The electric fuel pump does not develop the necessary pressure in the system (not less than 3.5 bar) 6. Faulty (clogged) injectors or electrical circuits for their power supply 7. High voltage is not supplied to the spark plugs due to: A) loose fit, damage or oxidation of high voltage wire lugs, b) damage to the insulation of wires, ignition coils, V) the order of connecting high voltage wires to the ignition module is violated 8. Oily or damaged spark plugs 9. Faulty ignition coils (VAZ 21124 engine) 10. Faulty ignition module (VAZ 2112 engine) 11. Destruction of the crankshaft damper 12. Blown injection fuse 13. Faulty ECU (electronic control unit) engine 14. Valve timing shifted 15. Faulty crankshaft position sensor or its electrical circuit |
1. Fill up the gas tank 2. Charge the battery by checking the electrolyte level and density, clean the leads and tighten the terminals, replace the battery if necessary 3. Replace the fuel filter, blow out the fuel lines with compressed air, clean the fuel inlet mesh, warm up the car in a warm garage if possible 4. Replace the fuse of the fuel pump, check the reliability of the wire connections, check and, if necessary, replace the relay or the fuel pump 5. Wash the fuel receiver mesh with solvent, measure the pressure at the outlet of the fuel pump. Replace defective fuel pump 6. Restore contact in the electrical circuits, wash in a special installation or replace nozzles 7. A) fasten the high voltage wires securely, clean the connections. b) replace high voltage wires or ignition coils V) connect the high voltage wires in the correct order (1-3-4-2) 8. Clean or replace spark plugs, adjust gap between electrodes 9. Replace ignition coils 10. Replace ignition module 11. Replace the crankshaft pulley 12. Replace the fuse 13. Replace ECU (electronic control unit) 14. Set the valve timing correctly 15. Replace crankshaft position sensor or wiring harness |
Engine won't start or takes a long time to start | |
1. Clogged or damaged gas hoses and fuel lines 2. Nozzle leakage |
1. Wash the fuel receiver mesh with a solvent, eliminate the kinks in the gas hoses, blow the lines with compressed air 2. Replace faulty injectors |
Engine starts, but immediately stalls or runs erratically | |
1. Leakage of current through contaminated insulation of high-voltage wires, faulty insulators of candles 2. «Wrong» the gap between the electrodes of the spark plugs, heavy carbon deposits 3. Valve timing shifted 4. Faulty ECU (electronic control unit) engine 5. Faulty: throttle position sensor, injectors, crankshaft damper, idle speed regulator, fuel pressure regulator, mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor 6. Leaky exhaust system (to the oxygen sensor) |
1. Clean high voltage wires, replace faulty spark plugs 2. Clean or replace the spark plugs, set the required gap by bending the electrode 3. Correctly set the valve timing 4. Replace ECU (electronic control unit) engine 5. Replace faulty nodes, sensors and elements 6. Replace exhaust manifold gasket |
Low idle | |
1. Air filter element dirty 2. Faulty IAC (idle speed controller) or his chain |
1. Replace the air filter element 2. Replace IAC (idle speed controller), check all connections |
High idle | |
1. Faulty IAC (idle speed controller) or his chains 2. Throttle does not close completely 3. Nozzles leaking 4. Too high pressure in the fuel line (the pressure regulator is faulty, its pneumatic line, the drain hose is pinched) |
1. Replace IAC (idle speed controller), check all connections 2. Adjust throttle actuator 3. Replace faulty injectors 4. Replace pressure regulator, troubleshoot fuel and air lines |
Extraneous noises and knocks are heard in the engine | |
1. A dull or sharp metallic knock in the engine due to: A) increased clearance in the main or connecting rod bearings, between the thrust half rings and the crankshaft b) insufficient oil pressure 2. A muffled knock in the engine caused by the relocation of the pistons in the cylinders when they are mutually heavily worn 3. Chattering sound caused by malfunctions and wear of parts of the gas distribution mechanism: necks, bearings and camshaft cams, valves and their bushings, as well as wear and «hanging» hydraulic pushers 4. Whistling sound or buzzing caused by: A) weakening or wear of the alternator drive belt b) wear of bearings or short circuit of generator windings V) coolant pump bearing wear G) wear of the bearings of the rollers of the timing belt 5. Loud, rumbling sound coming from the bottom of the car due to damage or burnt parts of the exhaust system |
1. A) repair the engine b) troubleshoot the lubrication system 2. Repair the engine 3. Replace worn and damaged parts, lap valves into seats, flush or replace hydraulic tappets, use high quality engine oil 4. A) tighten or replace the alternator drive belt b) replace bearings or alternator assembly V) replace coolant pump G) replace timing belt pulleys (and timing belt if worn) 5. Replace damaged parts of the exhaust system |
The emergency oil pressure lamp comes on and does not go out | |
1. Not enough oil in the crankcase 2. Ingress of foreign particles or sticking of the oil pump pressure reducing valve 3. Malfunction of the emergency oil pressure sensor 4. Heavy wear of oil pump parts 5. Strong wear of the crankshaft and camshaft journals, their liners and bearings |
1. Check the oil level in the crankcase and add oil if necessary 2. Clean the relief valve, remove the jam or replace the oil pump 3. Replace emergency oil pressure sensor 4. Replace oil pump 5. Repair the engine |
Engine takes a long time to warm up | |
1. Faulty thermostat 2. The radiator cooling fan is constantly running due to: A) temperature sensor malfunctions b) malfunction of the relay for switching on the radiator cooling fan V) ECU malfunctions (electronic control unit) engine |
1. Replace thermostat 2. A) replace temperature sensor b) replace the relay for turning on the radiator cooling fan V) replace the computer (electronic control unit) engine |
The engine does not develop power, the car twitches (jerks), pickup is low | |
1. Throttle does not open fully 2. Strong soot, «wrong» the gap between the electrodes of the spark plugs, damage to high-voltage wires (VAZ 2112 engine) 3. The air filter element is dirty 4. Low fuel pressure in the system 5. Faulty (polluted) injectors or their power circuits 6. Destruction of the crankshaft damper 7. Malfunction of sensors: crankshaft position, coolant temperature, throttle position, mass air flow, detonation, oxygen, as well as damage to the power circuits of these sensors 8. Leaky exhaust system (to the oxygen sensor) 9. Faulty fuel pressure regulator 10. Faulty ECU (electronic control unit) engine 11. Violation of the valve timing 12. General strong engine wear, low compression in the cylinders (less than 10 bar), occurrence of piston rings, wear or damage to valves, their bushings and seats, wear of camshaft cams |
1. Adjust throttle actuator 2. Clean or replace spark plugs, adjust gap between spark plug electrodes, replace damaged wires 3. Replace the air filter element 4. Clean the gas receiver mesh, replace the fuel filter, check the power supply circuit of the fuel pump and its relay. Replace faulty fuel pump or relay 5. Wash on a special installation or replace nozzles. Provide Reliable Power 6. Replace the crankshaft pulley 7. Replace sensors, restore the integrity of the power circuits 8. Replace exhaust manifold gasket 9. Replace fuel pressure regulator 10. Replace ECU (electronic control unit) engine 11. Correctly set the valve timing 12. Repair the engine |
The engine gets very hot | |
1. The cooling fan does not work 2. Faulty thermostat (radiator temperature low) 3. Not enough coolant in the cooling system 4. Dirty radiator 5. Faulty coolant pump 6. Low octane fuel filled in the gas tank 7. Thick deposits of soot in the combustion chamber, on the bottoms of the pistons and valve plates |
1. Check, if necessary, replace the radiator cooling fan or its sensor 2. Replace thermostat 3. Add coolant, check the tightness of the cooling system 4. Rinse the radiator from the outside with a jet of water or blow with compressed air 5. Replace coolant pump 6. Use only recommended fuel 7. Eliminate the cause of strong carbon deposits, use high quality engine oil |
Engine detonates (loud knocks that occur during acceleration and disappear when dropping «gas») | |
1. Low octane fuel filled in the gas tank 2. Thick deposits of soot in the combustion chamber, on the bottoms of the pistons and valve plates 3. Engine overheating 4. Faulty knock sensor |
1. Use only recommended fuel 2. Eliminate the cause of strong carbon deposits, use high quality engine oil 3. Eliminate engine overheating (see above) 4. Replace knock sensor |
Rapid drop in coolant level | |
1. Damage to the radiator, hoses, loosening of their connections with pipes 2. Damage to the cylinder head gasket, the block itself or the head 3. Worn or damaged coolant pump seal |
1. Repair leaks in connections, replace damaged parts 2. Replace cylinder head gaskets 3. Replace coolant pump |
High consumption of engine oil in the engine | |
1. Oil leakage through worn crankshaft and camshaft oil seals, valve stem seals, damaged oil pan gaskets and cylinder head covers 2. General strong wear of the parts of the cylinder-piston group and the gas distribution mechanism |
1. Replace worn and damaged parts, clean the crankcase ventilation system 2. Repair the engine |
High fuel consumption | |
1. Increased mechanical and aerodynamic resistance to movement: vehicle overload, low tire pressure, use of tires with winter or «cross-country» tread pattern, installation of a roof rack, various spoilers and guards, opening windows at high speed 2. «Sports» driving style with sudden accelerations, constant movement at high speed 3. Brake pads of the rear wheels rub against the brake drums due to an unadjusted hand brake drive 4. Violated the angles of the front wheels (collapse, convergence) 5. Energy-intensive consumers are often used: air conditioning, high-power sound speakers, electric heaters, additional lighting equipment 6. High viscosity oils are used in the engine and gearbox in the cold season 7. Increased pressure in the fuel lines due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator or a kink in the drain hose |
1. Avoid these factors whenever possible 2. Slow down while maintaining a calm driving style 3. Adjust handbrake actuator 4. Adjust the angles of the front wheels (collapse, convergence) 5. Try to reduce the energy consumption in the car 6. Use an oil suitable for the climate 7. Replace the regulator, eliminate |
Clutch malfunctions
Cause of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
Clutch pedal fails, clutch does not disengage | |
Broken clutch cable | Replace drive cable |
Clutch pedal makes noise when pressed | |
Deterioration of the release bearing, lack of lubrication in the clutch pedal joint | Replace release bearing, lubricate pedal axle |
Vibration and noise is felt when the clutch pedal is released | |
Severe wear, warping of the clutch disc, cracks or peeling of the linings, breakage of the springs of the damper of torsional vibrations, wear of the windows under the springs | Replace driven disk |
Car jerks when starting to move | |
1. Stuck clutch cable 2. The hub of the clutch disc is stuck on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox 3. Lubrication on the working surfaces of the clutch discs 4. Strong wear, warping of the driven disk, cracks or peeling of the linings, breakage of the springs of the damper of torsional vibrations, wear of the windows under the springs 5. Seizures on the working surfaces of the flywheel or clutch basket |
1. Lubricate the clutch cable with penetrating grease or engine oil, replace the damaged clutch cable 2. Clean the splines of both parts, remove the burrs with a needle file. Replace severely damaged parts. When reassembling, apply a thin layer of CV joint lubricant to the splines 3. Wash the surfaces of the clutch discs with white spirit or gasoline. Eliminate the cause of oiling (oil leakage through the engine or gearbox oil seals) 4. Replace clutch disc 5. Replace flywheel or clutch basket |
Clutch pedals and «gas» do not return to original position | |
Broken clutch pedal springs «gas» | Replace the clutch pedal springs and «gas» |
The engine speeds up, but the car accelerates poorly. Clutch slips, smell of overheated friction linings |
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1. Oil ingress on the working surfaces of the clutch discs 2. Clutch drive sticking 3. Strong wear, warping and burning of the lining of the clutch disc |
1. Wash the surfaces of the clutch discs with white spirit or gasoline. Eliminate the cause of oiling (oil leakage through the engine or gearbox oil seals) 2. Eliminate jamming or replace clutch actuator parts 3. Replace clutch disc |
Clutch «leads», making it difficult to shift gears (noise, rattle) with a good gearbox | |
1. Insufficient full travel of the clutch pedal 2. Stuck clutch cable 3. The hub of the clutch disc is stuck on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox 4. Scuffing on the working surfaces of the flywheel and clutch basket, distortion or warping of the clutch basket, wear of the leaf spring, warping of the clutch disc |
1. Adjust clutch actuator. If the clutch fork is deformed, replace it 2. Lubricate the clutch cable with penetrating grease or engine oil, replace the damaged cable 3. Clean the splines of both parts, remove the burrs with a needle file. Replace severely damaged parts. When reassembling, apply a thin layer of CV joint lubricant to the splines 4. Replace driven disc or clutch basket assembly |
Transmission malfunctions
Cause of malfunction | Troubleshooting |
Difficulty shifting gears | |
1. Clutch «leads» 2. The gearshift drive is not adjusted 3. The tightening of the nuts securing the ball joint of the gear lever has loosened 4. Deformed gearshift drive rod 5. Breakage or wear of the plastic parts of the gear shift mechanism 6. Deformation of parts of the gear selection mechanism, loosening of the fastening of the gear shift forks on the rods |
1. Adjust clutch actuator 2. Adjust shift actuator 3. Tighten nuts 4. Straighten or replace the linkage 5. Replace gearshift parts 6. Replace parts, tighten the bolts fixing the shift forks |
Squealing and crackling when shifting gears | |
1. Clutch «leads» 2. Wear of synchronizer rings or gears (reversing) |
1. Adjust clutch actuator 2. Replace the synchronizer rings or gears (reversing) |
Transmission randomly turns off («fly out») or turn on indistinctly | |
1. Incorrect adjustment of the gear shift mechanism 2. Strong wear of splines on couplings, gears or synchronizer hubs 3. Weakening of the springs of the gear selection mechanism, wear of the rods |
1. Adjust the shift actuator 2. Replace worn parts 3. Replace worn parts |
Noise in gearbox | |
1. Not enough oil in the gearbox 2. Strong wear of bearings, violation of the adjustment of the tightness of the tapered bearings of the differential housing 3. Strong gear wear in the gearbox |
1. Check the level, add oil 2. Replace all gearbox bearings, adjust differential housing bearing preload 3. Replace all gears, shafts and bearings in the gearbox |
Oil leak from gearbox | |
1. Worn input shaft seals or drive shafts (local) 2. The drain plug is not tightly wrapped, the joint between the gearbox housing and the clutch housing is leaking |
1. Replace oil seals 2. Securely tighten the plug, tighten the nuts securing the gearbox housing. If the oil leak persists, remove the gearbox, undock the crankcases and reconnect them, applying a thin layer of sealant to the joint |
Chassis and suspension faults
Cause of malfunction | Troubleshooting, repair |
Knocking noise heard when starting car | |
1. Wear of drive joints 2. Destruction of the supports of the power unit, silent bolts (rubber-metal joints) pendants 3. Loose suspension fasteners 4. Deterioration of the ball joint of the front suspension strut 5. Faulty suspension struts |
1. Replace hinges 2. Replace broken parts 3. Tighten the suspension fasteners 4. Replace ball joint 5. Replace or repair suspension struts |
Noise and knocks when driving on a flat road | |
1. The use of winter, studded and «all-terrain» tires on clean asphalt 2. Wheel bearing wear 3. Loose wheel bolts 4. Front suspension struts or rear shock absorbers are faulty, rubber-metal hinges and mounting cushions are worn out 5. Worn silent blocks (rubber-metal bushings) suspension arms |
1. Use tires according to road conditions 2. Replace wheel bearings 3. Tighten wheel bolts 4. Replace defective parts and assemblies 5. Replace bushings or levers |
Vibrations while driving | |
1. Front wheel imbalance, deformation or uneven tire wear, tread peeling 2. Strong wear of wheel bearings or drive joints 3. Deformation of drive shafts 4. Loose suspension fasteners |
1. Replace defective tires, balance wheels 2. Replace bearings or joints 3. Replace drive shafts 4. Tighten fasteners |
Rocking of the car when driving, a strong roll in corners | |
1. Front strut shock absorbers and rear suspension shock absorbers are faulty 2. Deformation of the anti-roll bar, destruction of its rubber pads or mounting brackets |
1. Replace defective front strut shock absorbers and rear suspension shock absorbers 2. Replace damaged parts |
Lubricant leaks from the anthers of the CV joints | |
SHRUS anthers are damaged | Remove, disassemble and clean the CV joint. After filling with grease, assemble the hinge with a new boot. If heavily soiled and worn, replace the joint |
The working fluid leaks from the struts and suspension shock absorbers | |
Defective shock absorber seals | Replace shock absorbers |
Uneven and rapid tire tread wear | |
1. Violated wheel alignment (collapse, convergence) 2. Increased wheel imbalance, rim deformation 3. Increased play in the steering and suspension, heavily worn wheel bearings, faulty shock absorbers |
1. Adjust installation angles (collapse, convergence) 2. Balance or change the wheel 3. Eliminate faults, replace, if necessary, parts and assemblies |
Steering malfunctions
Cause of malfunction | Method of elimination and repair |
The steering wheel is difficult to turn | |
1. Low pressure in the tires of the front wheels 2. Damaged support sleeve or rack stop, steering gear or steering column shaft bearings 3. Damaged tie rod joints 4. Damaged bearings of the upper supports of the suspension struts |
1. Inflate tires to normal pressure 2. Replace damaged parts, put grease in the steering gear 3. Replace tie rod ends 4. Replace the top supports |
Increased steering wheel play | |
1. Large clearance in the gearing of the steering gear 2. Increased clearance in the steering rod joints, the destruction of their bushings (rubber-metal hinges) |
1. Adjust the backlash in the gearing of the steering gear 2. Replace the tie rod ends, bushings (rubber-metal hinges) |
Clicks and noises when turning the car | |
1. Wheel bearing wear 2. Wear of external CV joints 3. Loose wheel bolts or hub nuts 4. Loose suspension fasteners, as well as steering gear, steering wheel, steering column bracket, flexible coupling 5. Malfunction of the steering mechanism 6. Worn or damaged differential parts |
1. Replace wheel bearings 2. Replace CV joints 3. Tighten the hub fasteners 4. Tighten fasteners 5. Repair or replace steering gear 6. Replace worn or damaged parts |
Driving the vehicle away from straight ahead | |
1. Different pressure in the tires of the front wheels or different levels of wear 2. Violation of wheel alignment 3. Braking front or rear wheel 4. Deformation of suspension parts, wear of rubber-metal hinges of levers |
1. Equalize tire pressure, install tires with the same level of wear 2. Adjust wheel alignment 3. Eliminate stutter 4. Replace deformed or worn parts |
Brake system malfunctions
Cause of brake failure | Troubleshooting and brake repair |
Vibrations, rattles and squeaks when braking | |
1. Deformation, corrosion or scuffing of the working surfaces of the brake discs or brake drums 2. Oiling, complete wear of the brake linings or the inclusion of foreign particles in them 3. Weak or broken return spring of the rear wheel brake pads |
1. Replace part data (in pairs on each axis) 2. Replace the brake pads, having previously eliminated the cause of oiling 3. Replace the rear wheel brake pad spring |
Car pull when braking | |
1. Oiling the brake pads 2. Incorrect adjustment of the actuator or malfunction of the brake pressure regulator 3. Violated wheel alignment angles, varying degrees of tire wear 4. Seizure of the piston in the working cylinder 5. One of the circuits of the brake system does not work (leak or collapse of the brake pipe) |
1. Eliminate the cause of brake pad oiling, clean or replace the brake pads 2. Adjust actuator or replace brake pressure regulator 3. Adjust wheel alignment (collapse, convergence), install tires with the same wear 4. Replace the slave cylinder 5. Restore the operability of the brake circuit |
Insufficient vehicle braking performance | |
1. Use of summer tires in winter 2. Overheating of the brakes 3. Oiling the brake pads 4. Complete wear of the brake pads (accompanied by a creak or rattle) 5. The drive of the pressure regulator is incorrectly adjusted or the brake pressure regulator is faulty 6. One of the circuits of the brake system does not work (rupture of the brake hose or collapse of the pipeline) 7. The vacuum booster is faulty or the tightness of its hose connections is broken 8. Air ingress into the hydraulic brakes (brake pedal «soft») |
1. Use tires according to the season 2. Stop the car and let the brakes cool down 3. Eliminate the cause of the oiling of the brake pads, clean or replace the brake pads 4. Replace the brake pads. If there are scuffs on the brake disc or brake drum, replace these parts as well 5. Adjust pressure regulator actuator, replace brake pressure regulator 6. Restore the performance of the brake circuit by replacing parts 7. Check hose connections, replace vacuum booster if necessary 8. Remove air from the brake system by bleeding the hydraulic brakes |
Incomplete wheel release | |
1. There is no free play of the brake pedal 2. Protrusion of the vacuum booster rod is not adjusted 3. Jamming of pistons in the main or working brake cylinders due to corrosion or swelling of the cuffs 4. Brake pad sticking due to corrosion and dirt (weakening or breakage of the springs of the brake pads of the rear wheels) |
1. Adjust the free travel of the brake pedal 2. Adjust the protrusion of the vacuum booster rod (1.23-1.25mm) 3. Replace brake cylinders as an assembly 4. Remove the brake pads, clean the brake mechanisms (replace spring if necessary) |
Rapid drop in brake fluid level | |
1. Leaks in the cuffs of the working brake cylinders or pipeline connections, traces of fluid are visible near the place where the brake fluid leaks 2. Leakage of the cuffs of the main brake cylinder, brake fluid flows into the cavity of the vacuum booster, its traces are not visible |
1. Replace the faulty working brake cylinder, restore the tightness of the connections 2. After removing the main brake cylinder, and making sure that there are brake fluid leaks, replace it. First remove the vacuum brake booster and pour out the brake fluid from it |
Leaking brake fluid | |
The tightness of the hydraulic drive of the brakes is broken | Repair leaks, replace defective components, add brake fluid and bleed the brakes |
Badly «keeps» handbrake | |
1. The hand brake drive is not adjusted 2. Handbrake cables stuck in sheaths |
1. Adjust handbrake actuator 2. Lubricate the handbrake cables with a penetrating lubricant, in case of severe corrosion and other damage, replace them |
Electrical faults
Cause of electrical failure | Troubleshooting and repair of electrical equipment |
Cabin heater fan not working | |
1. Poor contact in the heater wire connections, fuse blown 2. Faulty heater switch 3. Faulty heater motor |
1. Replace fuse, repair connections 2. Replace heater switch 3. Replace heater motor |
Heater fan only works at one speed | |
1. Resistor burned out 2. Faulty heater control switch |
1. Replace the resistor 2. Replace heater control switch |
The wiper motor does not work, the bimetal fuse does not work, the fuse in the mounting block is not blown | |
1. Faulty wire connections or wiper stalk 2. Faulty wiper gear motor |
1. Repair connections or replace wiper switch 2. Replace wiper motor |
The wiper motor does not work, the bimetal fuse works or the fuse in the mounting block blows | |
1. Short circuit in the winding of the electric motor of the wiper motor-reducer 2. The wiper blades are frozen to the glass or a foreign object has entered the linkage |
1. Replace wiper gear motor 2. Remove the obstruction to the movement of the mechanism |
Windshield wiper does not work intermittently | |
Defective wiper relay or switch | Replace failed nodes |
Wiper does not stop intermittently | |
1. Faulty wiper relay 2. Faulty contacts in the wiper motor-reducer |
1. Replace wiper relay 2. Clean, bend the contacts or replace the gearmotor |
Wiper blades stop at random position | |
1. Loose crank nut 2. Faulty contacts in the wiper motor-reducer |
1. After installing the crank, tighten the nut 2. Replace wiper motor |
Wiper blades are out of sync | |
Loosening the brush leash on the wiper shaft | After setting the brush in the desired position, tighten the leash nut |
The electric motor is running, but the wiper blades are stationary | |
1. Loosening the nut of the crank of the wiper motor-reducer 2. Destruction of the gear of the wiper motor-reducer |
1. After installing the crank in the desired position, tighten its nut 2. Replace wiper motor |
The battery discharge warning lamp is on. Mains voltage below 13.2 V |
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1. The alternator drive belt is broken or its tension is loose 2. Faulty: voltage regulator, rectifier unit, or generator excitation power supply diodes 3. Open or short circuit in the generator windings |
1. Replace or tighten the alternator belt 2. Replace defective items 3. Replace stator, rotor or generator assembly |
The battery charging indicator lamp does not light up. The battery is empty. Appliances are working |
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1. The battery charging indicator lamp burned out or an open circuit occurred in its power circuit 2. The alternator brushes are worn or stuck, the contact rings are dirty 3. Disconnected wire from the output «D» from the generator 4. Damaged voltage regulator and generator rectifier unit |
1. Replace the battery charge lamp or reconnect 2. Replace the brush holder with brushes, wipe the slip rings with a cloth soaked in solvent 3. Connect the wire to the terminal «D» generator 4. Replace faulty voltage regulator and alternator rectifier |
The battery charging indicator lamp lights up when the engine is running. The battery is recharged |
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Faulty voltage regulator | Replace voltage regulator |
The battery charging indicator lamp does not light up when the ignition is switched on. Appliances don't work |
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1. Blown fuse F19 2. An open has occurred in the power circuit of the instrument cluster or from the ignition switch to the mounting block 3. Faulty ignition switch |
1. Replace fuse F19 2. Restore the connection in the power supply circuit of the instrument cluster or from the ignition switch to the mounting block 3. Replace the faulty contact group or ignition switch assembly |
Headlights, lamps or ceiling lamps do not burn | |
1. Lamps burnt out 2. Blown fuses 3. Faulty relays or switches (switches) 4. Damaged wires and their connections |
1. Replace bulbs 2. Replace fuses 3. Replace defective items 4. Restore connections |
The direction indicator lamp flashes at a double frequency | |
One of the turn signal bulbs burned out | Replace turn signal bulb |