Diagnostics of car malfunctions and methods of their elimination (VAZ-2110)

Contents: Bodywork faults ↓ Starter malfunctions ↓ Engine malfunctions ↓ Clutch faults ↓ Gearbox malfunctions ↓ Chassis and suspension faults ↓ Steering malfunctions ↓ Brake system malfunctions ↓ Electrical equipment faults ↓

Bodywork faults

Cause of malfunction	Troubleshooting method
The car door does not open with the key
1. Water in the door lock cylinder froze (in winter), the cylinder is dirty 2. Damage to the door cylinder mechanism	1. Warm up the door lock cylinder, heat the key with a lighter flame, lubricate with penetrating lubricant 2. Replace the door lock cylinder
The door does not open with the outside handle
1. The outer door handle rod has become disconnected from the lock lever 2. Deformation of the external drive lever, jamming of parts	1. Replace the plastic end of the door rod 2. Straighten the lever, lubricate the door lock mechanism
Unpleasant smell in the cabin
1. Dirt has accumulated under the floor mats 2. Fallen leaves or other debris have entered the interior ventilation system	1. Remove dirt, wash the floor and rugs 2. Clean the air ducts of the cabin ventilation
The seat back does not lock in the set position
The teeth of the seat back retainer are broken	Replace the frame or the entire seat
The seat back does not return from the set position
The seat back adjustment mechanism is faulty	Replace damaged and worn seat parts
The seat is not adjustable in position
Failure of the seat back tilt adjustment mechanism or wear of the runners	Replace damaged or worn seat back or runner parts
The window handle turns but the glass does not move
1. The window lift cable broke 2. The splines on the window lifter handle have broken off 3. The clip came off the glass frame	1. Replace the window lift cable 2. Replace the window lift handle 3. Replace the glass assembly with the frame
The window lift handle turns with difficulty
1. Breakdown or contamination of the window lift mechanism, dirt got under the glass seals 2. Door deformation	1. Clean the seals, lubricate the window lift mechanism or replace it 2. Straighten or replace the door
The drop glass does not lock
1. The window lift cable pressure plate has become loose 2. The window lift brake is broken	1. Replace the window regulator 2. Replace the window regulator
Water is leaking into the car's interior
1. The position of the doors in the body openings is not adjusted 2. The glass seal is not tightly fitted or is damaged	1. Adjust the position of the doors in the body openings 2. Tighten or replace the glass seal
The door does not open with the inside handle
1. The door handle lever is broken 2. The door handle pull is insufficient	1. Replace the handle 2. Adjust the position of the inner handle

Starter malfunctions

Cause of malfunction	Troubleshooting method
When turning the ignition key, there is no sound from the starter or only clicks are heard
1. The battery is discharged 2. The terminals of the battery have oxidized or come off 3. The ignition switch is faulty, the wire is disconnected from the "50" terminal of the starter traction relay or the ignition switch 4. The starter is faulty: the contacts of the traction relay or wires are oxidized, poor contact with the "ground", short circuit or break in the retracting winding, shaft jamming in bearings, collector burning, hanging or wear of brushes, inter-turn short circuit in windings or to "ground"	1. Charge the battery, checking the level and density of the electrolyte. If the battery does not charge, replace it 2. Clean the battery surface, strip the terminals and clamps. Lubricate and securely fasten the terminals to the battery terminals 3. Restore the connection, replace the ignition switch if necessary 4. Clean the starter contacts, repair or replace the starter
The starter works (possibly with a lot of noise), but the crankshaft is motionless or turns jerkily
1. The freewheel clutch is slipping, the planetary gear is damaged (if there is one) 2. Breakdown of the drive mechanism, leash ring or buffer spring 3. The starter gear or the flywheel ring gear teeth are damaged, the ring gear rotates on the flywheel	1. Repair or replace the starter 2. Repair or replace the starter 3. Replace parts or starter
The starter rotates the crankshaft with a grinding noise, perhaps after starting the engine, a squealing gear can be heard
1. Severe wear of the flywheel gear and ring gear 2. The gear does not disengage from the ring gear due to a faulty drive, switch relay or ignition switch (contacts "30" and "50" do not open) 3. The starter pole mounts have become loose, the shaft bearings are badly worn, and the planetary gear is damaged (if there is one)	1. Replace the drive, flywheel or starter 2. Repair or replace parts and components 3. Repair or replace the starter

Engine malfunctions

Cause of engine failure	How to troubleshoot engine malfunction
The starter turns the crankshaft, but the engine does not start
1. There is no fuel in the gas tank 2. The battery is almost discharged, after a few revolutions the crankshaft stops 3. The fuel lines or fuel filter are clogged, an ice plug has formed in the engine fuel system (in winter). There is no smell of gasoline from the exhaust pipe when trying to start the engine 4. The fuel pump fuse has blown, the fuel pump power supply circuit, the fuel pump itself or its relay is damaged (the sound of the fuel pump running is not audible) 5. The electric fuel pump does not develop the required pressure in the system (not less than 3.5 bar) 6. The injectors or their electrical power supply circuits are faulty (clogged) 7. High voltage is not supplied to the spark plugs due to: a) loose fit, damage or oxidation of high voltage wire tips, b) damage to the insulation of wires, ignition coils, c) the order of connecting high voltage wires to the ignition module is violated 8. Spark plugs are oily or damaged 9. Ignition coils are faulty (vAZ 21124 engine) 10. The ignition module is faulty (vAZ 2112 engine) 11. Destruction of the crankshaft damper 12. The injection system fuse has blown 13. The ECU is faulty (electronic control unit) engine 14. The valve timing has shifted 15. The crankshaft position sensor or its electrical circuit is faulty	1. Fill the gas tank 2. Charge the battery, check the level and density of the electrolyte, clean the terminals and tighten the terminal fastening, replace the battery if necessary 3. Replace the fuel filter, blow out the fuel lines with compressed air, clean the fuel intake screen, and if possible, warm up the car in a warm garage 4. Replace the fuel pump fuse, check the reliability of the wire connections, check and, if necessary, replace the relay or fuel pump 5. Wash the fuel receiver mesh with solvent, measure the pressure at the fuel pump outlet. Replace the faulty fuel pump 6. Restore contact in the electrical circuits, flush using a special installation or replace the injectors 7. a) Securely fasten the high voltage wires, clean the connections. b) replace high voltage wires or ignition coils c) connect the high voltage wires in the correct order (1-3-4-2) 8. Clean or replace spark plugs, adjust the gap between the electrodes 9. Replace the ignition coils 10. Replace the ignition module 11. Replace the crankshaft pulley 12. Replace the fuse 13. Replace the ECU (electronic control unit) 14. Set the valve timing correctly 15. Replace the crankshaft position sensor or wiring harness
The engine does not start or takes a long time to start
1. Clogged or damaged fuel hoses and fuel lines 2. Leaky injectors	1. Wash the fuel intake screen with solvent, remove kinks in the fuel hoses, blow out the lines with compressed air 2. Replace faulty injectors
The engine starts, but immediately stalls or runs unsteadily
1. Current leakage through contaminated insulation of high-voltage wires, faulty spark plug insulators 2. "Incorrect" gap between spark plug electrodes, heavy carbon deposits 3. The valve timing is shifted 4. The ECU is faulty (electronic control unit) engine 5. Faulty: throttle position sensor, injectors, crankshaft damper, idle speed control valve, fuel pressure regulator, mass air flow sensor, oxygen sensor 6. The exhaust system is leaky (to the oxygen sensor)	1. Clean high-voltage wires, replace faulty spark plugs 2. Clean or replace the spark plugs, and set the required gap by bending the electrode 3. Set the valve timing correctly 4. Replace the ECU (electronic control unit) engine 5. Replace faulty components, sensors and elements 6. Replace the exhaust manifold gasket
Low idle speed
1. The air filter element is dirty 2. IAC faulty (idle speed control) or its chain	1. Replace the air filter element 2. Replace the IAC (idle speed control), check all connections
High idle speed
1. IAC faulty (idle speed control) or its chains 2. The throttle valve does not close completely 3. The injectors are not sealed 4. Too high pressure in the fuel line (the pressure regulator is faulty, its pneumatic line is faulty, the drain hose is pinched)	1. Replace the IAC (idle speed control), check all connections 2. Adjust the throttle actuator 3. Replace faulty injectors 4. Replace the pressure regulator, eliminate faults in the fuel and air lines
Extraneous noises and knocks are heard in the engine
1. A dull or sharp metallic knock in the engine due to: a) increased clearance in the main or connecting rod bearings, between the thrust half rings and the crankshaft b) insufficient oil pressure 2. A muffled knock in the engine caused by the pistons shifting in the cylinders when they are heavily worn against each other 3. A chirping sound caused by faults and wear of the valve timing mechanism parts: journals, bearings and camshaft cams, valves and their bushings, as well as wear and "sticking" of hydraulic tappets 4. A whistling or buzzing sound caused by: a) loosening or wear of the generator drive belt b) wear of bearings or short circuit of generator windings c) wear of the coolant pump bearing d) wear of the timing belt roller bearings 5. A loud, rumbling sound coming from underneath the vehicle due to damage or burnout of exhaust system components	1. a) repair the engine b) troubleshoot the lubrication system 2. Repair the engine 3. Replace worn and damaged parts, grind valves to seats, flush or replace hydraulic tappets, use high quality motor oil 4. a) tighten or replace the alternator drive belt b) replace the bearings or the generator assembly c) replace the coolant pump d) replace the timing belt rollers, (and the timing belt if it is worn out) 5. Replace damaged exhaust system parts
The oil pressure warning light comes on and does not go out
1. Not enough oil in the engine crankcase 2. Foreign particles or jamming of the oil pump pressure relief valve 3. Malfunction of the emergency oil pressure sensor 4. Severe wear of oil pump parts 5. Severe wear of the crankshaft and camshaft journals, their liners and supports	1. Check the oil level in the engine crankcase and add oil if necessary 2. Clean the pressure relief valve, remove the jam or replace the oil pump 3. Replace the oil pressure sensor 4. Replace the oil pump 5. Repair the engine
The engine takes a long time to warm up
1. Thermostat is faulty 2. The radiator cooling fan is constantly running due to: a) temperature sensor malfunction b) malfunction of the relay for switching on the radiator cooling fan c) ECU malfunctions (electronic control unit) engine	1. Replace the thermostat 2. a) replace the temperature sensor b) replace the radiator cooling fan relay c) replace the ECU (electronic control unit) engine
The engine does not develop power, the car jerks (jerks), acceleration is low
1. The throttle valve does not open fully 2. Heavy carbon deposits, "incorrect" gap between spark plug electrodes, damage to high-voltage wires (vAZ 2112 engine) 3. The air filter element is dirty 4. Low fuel pressure in the system 5. Defective (contaminated) injectors or their power supply circuits 6. Destruction of the crankshaft damper 7. Sensor failure: crankshaft position, coolant temperature, throttle position, mass air flow, detonation, oxygen, as well as damage to the power supply circuits of these sensors 8. The exhaust system is leaky (to the oxygen sensor) 9. The fuel pressure regulator is faulty 10. The ECU is faulty (electronic control unit) engine 11. Violation of valve timing 12. General severe engine wear, low compression in cylinders (less than 10 bar), sticking piston rings, wear or damage to valves, their bushings and seats, wear of camshaft cams	1. Adjust the throttle actuator 2. Clean or replace spark plugs, adjust spark plug gap, replace damaged wires 3. Replace the air filter element 4. Clean the fuel pickup screen, replace the fuel filter, check the fuel pump power supply circuit and its relay. Replace a faulty fuel pump or relay 5. Clean on a special installation or replace the injectors. Ensure reliable power supply 6. Replace the crankshaft pulley 7. Replace sensors, restore integrity of power supply circuits 8. Replace the exhaust manifold gasket 9. Replace the fuel pressure regulator 10. Replace the ECU (electronic control unit) engine 11. Set the valve timing correctly 12. Repair the engine
The engine gets very hot
1. The cooling system fan does not work 2. Thermostat is faulty (the radiator temperature is low) 3. Low coolant in the cooling system 4. The radiator is dirty 5. The coolant pump is faulty 6. Low octane number of fuel poured into the gas tank 7. Thick carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, on the piston crowns and valve plates	1. Check and replace the radiator cooling fan or its sensor if necessary 2. Replace the thermostat 3. Top up the coolant, check the cooling system for leaks 4. Rinse the radiator from the outside with a stream of water or blow it out with compressed air 5. Replace the coolant pump 6. Use only recommended fuel 7. Eliminate the cause of heavy carbon deposits, use high-quality motor oil
The engine detonates (a loud knocking sound that occurs during acceleration and disappears when the gas is released)
1. Low octane number of fuel poured into the gas tank 2. Thick carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, on the piston crowns and valve plates 3. Engine overheating 4. The knock sensor is faulty	1. Use only recommended fuel 2. Eliminate the cause of heavy carbon deposits, use high-quality motor oil 3. Eliminate engine overheating (see above) 4. Replace the knock sensor
Rapid drop in coolant level
1. Damage to the radiator, hoses, weakening of their connections with the pipes 2. Damage to the cylinder head gasket, the block itself or the head 3. Wear or damage to the coolant pump seal	1. Eliminate leaks in connections, replace damaged parts 2. Replace the cylinder head gaskets 3. Replace the coolant pump
High engine oil consumption
1. Oil leakage through worn crankshaft and camshaft seals, valve stem seals, damaged oil pan gaskets and cylinder head covers 2. General severe wear of the cylinder-piston group parts and the valve timing mechanism	1. Replace worn and damaged parts, clean the engine crankcase ventilation system 2. Repair the engine
High fuel consumption
1. Increased mechanical and aerodynamic resistance to movement: overloading the vehicle, low tire pressure, using tires with winter or all-terrain tread pattern, installing a roof rack, various spoilers and shields, opening windows at high speed 2. "Sporty" driving style with sharp acceleration, constant movement at high speed 3. The rear brake pads rub against the brake drums due to the handbrake drive not being adjusted properly 4. Front wheel alignment angles are incorrect (camber, toe-in) 5. Energy-intensive consumers are often used: air conditioners, high-power sound speakers, electric heaters, additional lighting equipment 6. High viscosity oils are used in the engine and gearbox during the cold season 7. Increased pressure in the fuel lines due to a faulty pressure regulator or a kinked drain hose	1. Avoid the above factors if possible 2. Reduce your speed, trying to maintain a calm driving style 3. Adjust the handbrake drive 4. Adjust the front wheel alignment angles (camber, toe-in) 5. Try to reduce energy consumption in the car 6. Use oil that is appropriate for the climate conditions 7. Replace the regulator, eliminate

Clutch faults

Cause of malfunction	Troubleshooting method
The clutch pedal fails, the clutch does not disengage
Clutch cable breakage	Replace the drive cable
When pressing the clutch pedal, a noise and creaking sound is heard
Worn release bearing, lack of lubrication in clutch pedal joint	Replace the release bearing, lubricate the pedal axle
Vibration and noise are felt when releasing the clutch pedal
Severe wear, warping of the clutch driven disc, cracks or peeling of the linings, breakage of the torsional vibration damper springs, wear of the windows under the springs	Replace the slave disk
The car jerks when starting to move
1. Clutch cable jamming 2. The hub of the driven clutch disc is jammed on the splines of the primary shaft of the gearbox 3. Grease getting onto the working surfaces of the clutch discs 4. Severe wear, warping of the driven disk, cracks or peeling of the linings, breakage of the torsional vibration damper springs, wear of the windows under the springs 5. Scoring on the working surfaces of the flywheel or clutch basket	1. Lubricate the clutch cable with penetrating lubricant or engine oil, replace the damaged clutch cable 2. Clean the splines of both parts, remove any burrs with a file. Replace any badly damaged parts. Apply a thin layer of CV joint grease to the splines when assembling 3. Wash the surfaces of the clutch discs with white spirit or gasoline. Eliminate the cause of the oiling (oil leak through engine or gearbox seals) 4. Replace the clutch slave disc 5. Replace the flywheel or clutch basket
The clutch and gas pedals do not return to their original position
The springs of the clutch and "gas" pedals have broken	Replace the springs of the clutch and "gas" pedals
The engine increases its speed, but the car accelerates poorly. The clutch is slipping, there is a smell of overheated friction linings
1. Oil getting on the working surfaces of the clutch discs 2. Clutch drive sticking 3. Severe wear, warping and burning of the clutch driven disc linings	1. Wash the surfaces of the clutch discs with white spirit or gasoline. Eliminate the cause of the oiling (oil leak through engine or gearbox seals) 2. Eliminate jamming or replace clutch drive components 3. Replace the clutch slave disc
The clutch "leads", which makes it difficult to change gears (noise, grinding) with a working gearbox
1. Insufficient full travel of the clutch pedal 2. Clutch cable jamming 3. The hub of the driven clutch disc is jammed on the splines of the primary shaft of the gearbox 4. Scoring on the working surfaces of the flywheel and clutch basket, misalignment or warping of the clutch basket, wear of the petal spring, warping of the driven clutch disc	1. Adjust the clutch drive. If the clutch fork is deformed, replace it 2. Lubricate the clutch cable with penetrating lubricant or engine oil, replace the damaged cable 3. Clean the splines of both parts, remove any burrs with a file. Replace any badly damaged parts. Apply a thin layer of CV joint grease to the splines when assembling 4. Replace the driven disc or clutch basket assembly

Gearbox malfunctions

Cause of malfunction	Troubleshooting method
Difficulty shifting gears
1. The clutch "leads" 2. The gear shift drive is not adjusted 3. The tightening of the nuts securing the ball joint of the gear shift lever has become loose 4. The gear shift drive rod is deformed 5. Breakage or wear of plastic parts of the gear shift mechanism 6. Deformation of gear selection mechanism parts, loosening of gear shift forks on rods	1. Adjust the clutch drive 2. Adjust the shift drive 3. Tighten the nuts 4. Straighten or replace the rod 5. Replace the gear shift mechanism parts 6. Replace the parts, tighten the gear shift fork fixing bolts
Grinding and crackling noise when shifting gears
1. The clutch "leads" 2. Wear of synchronizer rings or gears (reverse)	1. Adjust the clutch drive 2. Replace the synchronizer rings or gears (reverse)
Gears spontaneously switch off ("fly out") or engage unclearly
1. Incorrect adjustment of the gear shift mechanism 2. Severe wear of splines on couplings, gears or synchronizer hubs 3. Weakening of the gear selection mechanism springs, wear of the rods	1. Adjust the gear shift drive 2. Replace worn parts 3. Replace worn parts
Noise in the gearbox
1. Not enough oil in the gearbox 2. Severe wear of bearings, improper adjustment of the tension of the tapered bearings of the differential housing 3. Severe wear of gears in the gearbox	1. Check the level, add oil 2. Replace all gearbox bearings, adjust the tension of the differential housing bearings 3. Replace all gears, shafts and bearings in the gearbox
Gearbox oil leak
1. Wear of the primary shaft seals or drive shafts (locally) 2. The drain plug is not tightly screwed in, the joint between the gearbox housing and the clutch housing is not tight	1. Replace the seals 2. Securely tighten the plug, tighten the nuts securing the gearbox housing. If the oil leak is not eliminated, remove the gearbox, disconnect the housings and reconnect them, applying a thin layer of sealant to the joint

Chassis and suspension faults

Cause of malfunction	Troubleshooting method, repair
A knocking sound is heard when the car starts moving
1. Wear of drive joints 2. Destruction of powertrain supports, silent blocks (rubber-metal hinges) pendants 3. The suspension fasteners are loose 4. Wear of the ball joint of the front suspension strut 5. Suspension struts are faulty	1. Replace the hinges 2. Replace damaged parts 3. Tighten the suspension fasteners 4. Replace the suspension ball joint 5. Replace or repair suspension struts
Noise and knocking when driving on a smooth road
1. Using winter, studded and all-terrain tires on clean asphalt 2. Wear of wheel hub bearings 3. Loosening the wheel mounting bolts 4. The front suspension struts or rear shock absorbers are faulty, the rubber-metal hinges and mounting cushions are worn out 5. Worn out silent blocks (rubber-metal bushings) suspension arms	1. Use tires according to road conditions 2. Replace the wheel hub bearings 3. Tighten the wheel bolts 4. Replace faulty parts and components 5. Replace bushings or levers
Vibrations when the car is moving
1. Imbalance of the front wheels, deformation or uneven wear of the tires, tread separation 2. Severe wear of wheel bearings or drive joints 3. Deformation of drive shafts 4. Loosening of suspension fasteners	1. Replace defective tires, balance wheels 2. Replace bearings or joints 3. Replace the drive shafts 4. Tighten the fasteners
The car sways when driving, rolls heavily when turning
1. The front shock absorbers and rear suspension shock absorbers are faulty 2. Deformation of the anti-roll bar, destruction of its rubber pads or mounting brackets	1. Replace faulty front shock absorbers and rear shock absorbers 2. Replace damaged parts
Grease leaks from CV joint boots
The CV joint boots are damaged	Remove, disassemble and wash the CV joint. After filling with grease, assemble the joint with a new boot. If heavily contaminated and worn, replace the joint
Working fluid leaks from suspension struts and shock absorbers
Shock absorber seals are faulty	Replace the shock absorbers
Uneven and rapid wear of tire tread
1. Wheel alignment angles are incorrect (camber, toe-in) 2. Increased wheel imbalance, rim deformation 3. Increased play in the steering and suspension, heavily worn wheel bearings, faulty shock absorbers	1. Adjust the installation angles (camber, toe-in) 2. Balance or replace the wheel 3. Eliminate faults, replace parts and components if necessary

Steering malfunctions

Cause of malfunction	Method of elimination and repair
The steering wheel turns with difficulty
1. Low tire pressure on the front wheels 2. The support bushing or the rack stop, the steering gear bearings or the steering column shaft are damaged 3. The steering rod joints are damaged 4. The bearings of the upper suspension strut supports are damaged	1. Inflate the tires to normal pressure 2. Replace damaged parts, add grease to the steering gear 3. Replace the tie rod ends 4. Replace the upper supports
Increased steering wheel play
1. There is a large gap in the steering gear gear 2. Increased clearance in the steering rod joints, destruction of their silent block (rubber-metal hinges)	1. Adjust the clearance in the steering gear gear 2. Replace the tie rod ends, silent blocks (rubber-metal hinges)
Clicking and noise when turning the car
1. Wear of wheel bearings 2. Wear of outer CV joints 3. Loose wheel bolts or hub nuts 4. Loosening of suspension fasteners, as well as fastening of the steering gear, steering wheel, steering column bracket, elastic coupling 5. Steering gear malfunction 6. Wear or damage to differential parts	1. Replace the wheel bearings 2. Replace CV joints 3. Tighten the hub fasteners 4. Tighten the fasteners 5. Repair or replace the steering gear 6. Replace worn or damaged parts
Vehicle deviation from straight-line motion
1. Different pressure in the front tires or different levels of wear 2. Violation of wheel alignment angles 3. Braking of the front or rear wheel 4. Deformation of suspension parts, wear of rubber-metal hinges of levers	1. Equalize tire pressure, install tires with the same level of wear 2. Adjust the wheel alignment angles 3. Eliminate slowdowns 4. Replace deformed or worn parts

Brake system malfunctions

Cause of brake failure	Troubleshooting and brake repair
Vibrations, grinding and creaking when braking
1. Deformation, corrosion or scoring of the working surfaces of brake discs or brake drums 2. Oiling, complete wear of brake linings or inclusion of foreign particles in them 3. Weakening or breakage of the rear wheel brake shoe tension spring	1. Replace these parts (in pairs on each axis) 2. Replace the brake pads, having first eliminated the cause of the oiling 3. Replace the rear brake shoe spring
Car pulls away when braking
1. Oiling of brake pads 2. Incorrect drive adjustment or brake pressure regulator malfunction 3. Wheel alignment angles are incorrect, tire wear varies 4. Piston sticking in the working brake cylinder 5. One of the brake system circuits is not working (leaking or crushed brake line)	1. Eliminate the cause of oiling of brake pads, clean or replace brake pads 2. Adjust the drive or replace the brake pressure regulator 3. Adjust the wheel alignment angles (camber, toe-in), install tires with equal wear 4. Replace the working brake cylinder 5. Restore the functionality of the brake system circuit
Insufficient braking efficiency of the vehicle
1. Using summer tires in winter 2. Overheating of brake mechanisms 3. Oiling of brake pads 4. Complete wear of brake shoe linings (accompanied by a creaking or grinding sound) 5. The pressure regulator drive is incorrectly adjusted or the brake pressure regulator is faulty 6. One of the brake system circuits is not working (brake hose rupture or pipeline collapse) 7. The vacuum booster is faulty or the tightness of its hose connections is broken 8. Air entering the brake hydraulic system (the brake pedal is "soft")	1. Use tires according to the season of operation 2. Stop the car and let the brakes cool down 3. Eliminate the cause of oiling of brake pads, clean or replace brake pads 4. Replace the brake pads. If there are any scuffs on the brake disc or brake drum, replace these parts as well 5. Adjust the pressure regulator drive, replace the brake pressure regulator 6. Restore the functionality of the brake system circuit by replacing parts 7. Check the hose connections, replace the vacuum booster if necessary 8. Remove air from the brake system by bleeding the brake hydraulic system
Incomplete release of the wheels
1. There is no free travel of the brake pedal 2. The protrusion of the vacuum booster rod is not adjusted 3. Seizure of pistons in the main or working brake cylinders due to corrosion or swelling of the cuffs 4. Brake pads seizing due to corrosion and contamination (weakening or breakage of the rear wheel brake pad springs)	1. Adjust the brake pedal free play 2. Adjust the vacuum booster rod protrusion (1.23-1.25 mm) 3. Replace the brake cylinders as an assembly 4. Remove the brake pads, clean the brake mechanisms (replace the spring if necessary)
Rapid drop in brake fluid level
1. Leaky seals of the working brake cylinders or pipeline connections, traces of fluid are visible near the place of the brake fluid leak 2. Leaky seals of the main brake cylinder, brake fluid flows into the cavity of the vacuum booster, its traces are not visible	1. Replace the faulty brake master cylinder, restore the tightness of the connections 2. After removing the main brake cylinder and making sure that the brake fluid is leaking, replace it. First, remove the brake booster and drain the brake fluid from it
Brake fluid is leaking
The hydraulic brake drive is leaking	Fix leaks, replace defective components, add brake fluid and bleed the brakes
The handbrake doesn't hold well
1. The handbrake drive is not adjusted 2. Handbrake cables get stuck in the casings	1. Adjust the handbrake drive 2. Lubricate the handbrake cables with penetrating lubricant; replace them if there is severe corrosion or other damage

Electrical equipment faults

Cause of electrical equipment failure	Method of troubleshooting and repair of electrical equipment
The interior heater fan does not work
1. Poor contact in the heater wire connections, blown fuse 2. The heater switch is faulty 3. The heater electric motor is faulty	1. Replace the fuse, restore the connections 2. Replace the heater switch 3. Replace the heater motor
The heater fan only operates at one speed
1. The resistor burned out 2. The heater control switch is faulty	1. Replace the resistor 2. Replace the heater control switch
Windscreen wiper motor does not work, bimetallic fuse does not operate, fuse in fuse box is not blown
1. Faulty wiring connections or windshield wiper stalk 2. The windshield wiper motor-reducer is faulty	1. Repair the connections or replace the wiper switch 2. Replace the windshield wiper motor
Windscreen wiper motor does not work, bimetal fuse trips or fuse in fuse box blows
1. Short circuit in the winding of the windshield wiper motor-reducer electric motor 2. The wiper blades are frozen to the glass or a foreign object has gotten into the lever mechanism	1. Replace the windshield wiper motor 2. Remove any obstruction to the mechanism movement
The windshield wiper does not work in intermittent mode
The wiper relay or switch is faulty	Replace faulty components
Windshield wiper does not stop in intermittent mode
1. The windshield wiper relay is faulty 2. The contacts in the windshield wiper motor-reducer are faulty	1. Replace the wiper relay 2. Clean, bend contacts or replace the gear motor
Windscreen wipers stop in random positions
1. The crank nut has come loose 2. The contacts in the windshield wiper motor-reducer are faulty	1. After installing the crank, tighten the nut 2. Replace the windshield wiper motor
The windshield wipers are not working in sync
Loosening of the wiper arm fastening on the windshield wiper shaft	Once the brush is in the desired position, tighten the leash nut
The electric motor runs but the wiper blades do not move
1. Loosen the windshield wiper motor gear crank mounting nut 2. Destruction of the windshield wiper motor gear	1. Once the crank is in the desired position, tighten its nut 2. Replace the windshield wiper motor
The low battery indicator light is on. The network voltage is below 13.2 V
1. The alternator drive belt is broken or loose 2. Faulty: voltage regulator, rectifier unit, or generator excitation winding power supply diodes 3. Open or short circuit in the generator windings	1. Replace or tighten the alternator belt 2. Replace faulty elements 3. Replace the stator, rotor or generator assembly
The battery charging indicator light does not light. The battery is discharged. The devices are working
1. The battery charging indicator lamp has burned out or there is a break in its power supply circuit 2. The generator brushes are worn out or stuck, the contact rings are dirty 3. The wire from the "D" terminal of the generator has become disconnected 4. The voltage regulator and rectifier unit of the generator are damaged	1. Replace the battery charging lamp or repair the connections 2. Replace the brush holder with brushes, wipe the contact rings with a cloth soaked in solvent 3. Connect the wire to the "D" terminal of the generator 4. Replace the faulty voltage regulator and rectifier unit of the generator
The battery charge indicator light comes on when the engine is running. The battery is recharging
The voltage regulator is faulty	Replace the voltage regulator
The battery charge indicator lamp does not light when the ignition is turned on. The devices do not work
1. Fuse F19 has blown 2. There is a break in the power supply circuit of the instrument cluster or from the ignition switch to the mounting block 3. The ignition switch is faulty	1. Replace fuse F19 2. Restore the connection in the instrument cluster power supply circuit or from the ignition switch to the fuse box 3. Replace the faulty contact group or the ignition switch assembly
The headlights, lanterns or lampshades do not light
1. The lamps burned out 2. The fuses have blown 3. Relays or switches are faulty (switches) 4. The wires and their connections are damaged	1. Replace the bulbs 2. Replace the fuses 3. Replace faulty elements 4. Restore connections
The direction indicator lamp flashes at double speed
One of the turn signal bulbs has burned out	Replace the turn signal bulb