Warning! If at least one of the following parts was replaced during the repair of the gearbox: clutch housings or gearboxes, differential housing or differential bearings, then it is necessary to select an adjusting ring for differential bearings.
You will need: keys «on 10», «at 12», «at 13», «at 17», end heads «on 10», «at 13», «at 17», screwdriver, pliers.
1. Remove the gearbox from the car (see «Removal and installation of a transmission»). Clean it of dirt and wash the outside.
2. Install the gearbox vertically up. Remove the six nuts securing the rear cover.
3. Turn out a bolt of fastening and remove an arm of a cable of coupling.
4. Gently pry the rear cover out of place with a rubber mallet.
5. Remove the rear cover from the gearbox housing..
6.... and the cover gasket.
Warning! Remove the gasket carefully, since an undamaged gasket can be reinstalled during assembly.
7. Engage III or IV gear.
8. Remove the bolt securing the V gear fork and engage the V gear by moving the synchronizer clutch down with the fork so that the splines of the clutch engage the gear.
9. Check that the shafts do not rotate.
10. Unlock and unscrew the nuts on the secondary..
11.... and primary shafts.
12. Pry the V gear synchronizer by the hub with screwdrivers..
13.... and remove it along with the plug. Pull the plug out of the clutch.
Warning! Remove the synchronizer carefully. Make sure that the synchronizer clutch does not come off the hub - the spring-loaded synchronizer locking balls may crumble.
14. Remove the blocking ring synchronizer V transmission.
15. Pry off the driven gear of the V gear with a screwdriver..
16.... and remove it from the secondary shaft.
17. Remove the needle bearing thrust washer.
18. Remove the 5th gear needle bearing.
19. Pry off the drive gear of the 5th gear with a screwdriver..
20.... and remove it from the input shaft.
21. Using an impact screwdriver, remove the four screws securing the bearing plate..
22.... and remove the plate.
23. Pry off with screwdrivers and remove the bushing of the V gear needle bearing from the output shaft.
24. Remove the thrust washer from the output shaft.
25. Remove the input shaft bearing circlip. To do this, press the retaining ring against the bearing ring with one screwdriver, and remove the ring from the groove with the other screwdriver.
26. Similarly remove a lock ring of the bearing of a secondary shaft.
27. Turn out a stopper of a clamp.
28. Carefully remove the detent ball with spring. Remove two more retainers in the same way.
29. Turn out two bolts of fastening …
30.... and remove the rear support of the power unit.
31. Turn out a stopper of a clamp of a backing. Tilt the box and remove the retainer ball with the spring.
32. Turn away twelve nuts and turn out a bolt of fastening of a case of a transmission to a clutch case.
33. Using a large screwdriver, carefully separate the clutch and gearbox housings.
Note. Between the crankcases there are three places where you can insert a screwdriver so as not to damage the sealing gasket. Alternately insert a screwdriver into these slots and gently shake until the crankcases are separated.
34. Remove the gearbox housing.
35. Turn out a bolt of fastening of a plug of switching of I and II transfers.
36. Raise the rod and remove it together with the shift fork of I and II gears.
37. Turn out a bolt of fastening of a plug of switching of III and IV transfers.
38. Remove the rod head from engagement with the lever..
39.... and remove it along with the plug.
40. Rotate the 5th gear fork rod, pulling its head out of the lever. Pull out the stem.
41. Remove the circlip.
42. Remove the reverse fork.
43. Remove the reverse gear with the axle.
44. Slightly rocking, take out at the same time primary and secondary shafts.
Note. When both shafts of the gearbox are removed, the inner races of the front bearings remain on the shafts.
45. Take out a conducted gear wheel of the main transfer together with differential.
46. Turn out three bolts of fastening …
47.... and remove the gearshift mechanism.
48. Carefully remove the gasket.
Helpful advice. Be careful not to damage the seal when removing. An undamaged gasket can be reused when assembling the gearbox.
49. Press the output shaft front bearing out of the clutch housing. To do this, you can use the puller foot or similar tool.
50. To replace the input shaft front bearing, press out the oil seal.
Warnings! Press out the front input shaft bearings and oil seal only when replacing them or replacing the clutch housing. It is impossible to press out the input shaft seal without damaging it. Therefore, when replacing the input shaft bearing, you will need a new oil seal.
51. Press the bearing into the crankcase by applying force to the bearing outer race.
52. Remove the magnet from the clutch housing.
53. Turn away a nut of fastening of the case of a drive of the sensor of speed.
54. Pry off the case with a screwdriver..
55.... and remove the housing with the driven gear of the sensor drive.
Note. If during operation traces of oil leakage through the hole for the speed sensor drive were noticed, replace the rubber sealing ring on the drive housing.
56. Remove the driven gear with the sensor drive shaft from the housing.
57. Push the o-ring out of the drive housing.
58. Remove the reverse light switch from the gearbox housing.
59. Slide the protective cover of the gearshift linkage hinge from the flanging on the gearbox.
60. Remove the opposite edge of the protective boot from the hinge flange.
61. Turn out a bolt of fastening of the hinge to a rod..
62.... remove the hinge from the rod..
63.... and a protective case.
64. Turn out a bolt of fastening of the lever to a rod of a gear change in a case of coupling.
65. Remove the lever and rod from the clutch housing.
66. If during operation traces of oil leakage through the hole in the clutch housing under the gearshift rod were noticed, replace the rod seal.
Before inspection and troubleshooting, thoroughly wash and dry the gearbox parts.
67. Inspect the clutch and gearbox housings, as well as the rear cover. They should not have cracks or chips. There should be no nicks, scratches, dents, etc. on the mating surfaces. Remove minor damage with sandpaper. If severely damaged, replace defective parts.
68. Check the bearing seats in both crankcases. These surfaces must not show signs of wear or damage. If there is damage, replace the crankcases.
69. Check up a condition of rods of inclusion of transfers. If they are bent, or if the stems are nicked, burred, or notched, replace the stems. Check the condition of the shift forks. If the forks are bent or the tabs are worn, replace these parts.
70. If oil leaks through the seals during operation and when the working edges are worn, the seals must be replaced.
71. Check the condition of the bearings. In the presence of pitting (shells) on treadmills and rolling elements, traces of indentation of rolling elements on treadmills or in case of damage to the cages, the bearings must be replaced.
72. Replace damaged or heavily compressed gaskets.
73. Clean the magnet of wear particles. If the magnet is cracked or magnetically weak, replace the magnet.
74. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the clutch and gearbox housings and the rear cover from the old sealant.
Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following.
75. Before installing the shafts, engage the teeth of their gears and in this position install them in the clutch housing.
Pay attention to how the forks should be installed on the shift rods:
- 1 – a rod with a fork of inclusion of V transfer;
- 2 – a rod with a fork of inclusion of III and IV transfers;
- 3 – a rod with a fork of inclusion of I and II transfers.
77. Copiously lubricate all friction parts with gear oil.
78. Don't forget to replace the magnet.