1. Disconnect the wire from the "–" terminal of the battery.
2. Remove the generator from the vehicle (see "Removal and installation the generator").
3. Mark the relative positions of the generator covers.

4. Press the three latches…

5. …and remove the plastic cover.

6. Remove the two screws securing the voltage regulator.

7. Remove the voltage regulator with the brush holder…

8. …and disconnect the connector with the wire from the regulator terminal.

9. Remove the four screws securing the rectifier unit and the screw securing the capacitor.

10. Bend back the three stator winding leads so that they allow the rectifier unit to be removed.

11. Remove the rectifier block with the capacitor.

12. To replace the capacitor, unscrew the contact bolt nut, remove the washer and spacer sleeve. Remove the capacitor wire tip from the contact bolt.

13. Remove the four clamping screws (the screws are tightened with a high torque). Spring and flat washers are installed under the screw heads.

14. Using a screwdriver, remove the generator cover from the contact ring side.

15. Clamp the generator rotor in a vice (not too hard so that the rotor does not turn) and unscrew the pulley mounting nut. Remove the spring washer and pulley.

16. Remove the thrust washer.

17. Remove the rotor from the drive side cover.

18. Remove the spacer ring from the rotor shaft.

19. Inspect the contact rings. If they have burrs, scratches, marks, wear marks from brushes, etc., grind the rings. If the damage to the rings cannot be removed with sandpaper, you can turn the rings on a lathe, removing a minimal layer of metal, and then grind them.

20. Check the rotor winding resistance with an ohmmeter (tester) by connecting it to the contact rings. If the ohmmeter shows infinity, then there is a break in the windings and the rotor needs to be replaced.

21. Check with a test lamp whether there is a short circuit between the winding and the rotor housing. To do this, connect the test lamp to the 220 V AC network (you can use a battery and a 12V lamp). Connect one wire to the rotor body, the second one to each ring in turn. In both cases, the lamp should not light. If the lamp lights in at least one case, then there is a short circuit and the rotor must be replaced.

22. Remove the stator from the front cover housing. There should be no traces of the anchor touching the stator on the inner surface of the stator. If there is wear, the bearings or generator covers must be replaced.

23. Check for a break in the stator winding. To do this, connect the test lamp to the 220 V AC network (you can use a battery and a 12V lamp). Connect the test lamp between all winding terminals one by one. In all three cases, the lamp should light. If the lamp does not light, there is a break in the winding. Replace the stator or winding.

24. Check if there is a short circuit between the stator windings and the housing. To do this, connect the test lamp to the 220 V AC network (you can use a battery and a 12V lamp). Connect the lamp to the stator winding terminal and the wire from the power source to the stator housing. If the lamp lights up, there is a short circuit and the stator or winding must be replaced.

25. Inspect the generator cover from the drive side together with the bearing. If, when rotating the bearing, you feel play between the rings, rolling or jamming, the protective rings are damaged or there are traces of grease leakage, cracks are found in the cover, especially in the places where the generator is attached, it is necessary to replace the cover together with the bearing (the bearing in the cover is rolled).
26. Check the ease of rotation of the bearing from the contact rings. If, when rotating the bearing, there is play between the rings, rolling or jamming, the protective rings are damaged or there are signs of grease leakage, the bearing must be replaced. To do this, use a puller to press the bearing off the rotor shaft and press on a new one using a suitable mandrel, applying force to the inner ring of the bearing.
27. Inspect the generator cover from the contact ring side. If cracks are found, the cover must be replaced.
28. Check the voltage regulator for proper operation. Connect a 12 V test lamp to the brushes. Apply 12 V: "+" to the terminal, "-" to the brush holder "ground". The test lamp should light.

29. Increase the voltage to 15-16 V - the lamp should go out. If the lamp does not go out or does not light at 12 V, replace the regulator with the brush holder.

30. Check the ease of movement of the brushes in the brush holder and their protrusion. If the brushes protrude from the brush holder by less than 5 mm, replace the voltage regulator with the brush holder. If chips or cracks are found on the brushes, replace the regulator.
(The information is posted on the portal VAZbook.ru)

31. The capacitor's serviceability can be checked with a megohmmeter or a tester (on a scale of 1–10 MOhm). Connect the tester's probes to the capacitor's contacts. Before connecting, the device shows infinity. At the moment of connection, the resistance decreases and then returns to infinity again. In this case, the capacitor is serviceable. A faulty capacitor must be replaced.

32. You can check the rectifier unit both with the generator removed and without removing the generator from the car. The check procedure is the same. For clarity, the check diagrams are shown on a removed generator. To check on the car, disconnect the wires from the battery and generator. Remove the block with the wire from the voltage regulator terminal, unscrew the two screws and remove the brush holder from the generator.

1 - positive diodes (with a red mark on the body); 2 - negative diodes (with a black mark on the body); 3 – additional diodes.
33. Check the rectifier block diodes using a 12 V test lamp and a battery. To check for a short circuit in the positive and negative diodes, connect the "+" of the battery through the test lamp to the "B+" terminal of the generator, and the "-" of the battery to the generator body. The lamp should not light. If the lamp lights, there is a short circuit. The block must be replaced.

34. To check the positive diodes, connect the "+" of the battery via a test lamp to the "B+" terminal of the generator, and the wire coming from the "-" of the battery to one of the stator winding terminal mounting screws. The lamp should not light. If it lights, there is a short circuit in the positive diodes. The unit must be replaced.

35. To check the negative diodes, connect the "+" of the battery via a test lamp to one of the stator winding terminal mounting screws, and the wire coming from the "-" of the battery to the generator housing. The lamp should not light. If the lamp lights, there is a short circuit in the negative diodes. The unit must be replaced.

36. To check the additional diodes, connect the "+" of the battery via a test lamp to the contact of the voltage regulator connector block, and the wire coming from the "-" of the battery to one of the stator winding terminal mounting screws. The lamp should not light. If the lamp lights, there is a short circuit in the additional diodes. The unit must be replaced.

37. Assemble the generator in the reverse order of disassembly. Orient the generator cover according to the marks made earlier. Install the generator pulley spring washer with the convex side facing the nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 39–62 N·m (3.9–6.2 kgf·m).
Note: When assembling, the capacitor must be precisely oriented relative to the mounting protrusion on the cover, otherwise the brush holder will not fit into place.
