After removing the radiator, check its tightness in a bath of water. To do this, close the pipes and supply compressed air under a pressure of 0.2 MPa. Lower the radiator into the water for at least 30 s. There should be no air leakage. Tightness can be checked without removing the radiator from the car. To do this, with the pipes plugged, fill the radiator with water under a pressure of 0.2 MPa. There should be no leaks.
In case of damage or leakage, replace the radiator or repair it. In case of damage to the aluminum tube, disassemble the radiator and drill the defective tube on a stand from both sides with an 8.5 mm drill to a depth of 25-30 mm. A 7.3-0.5 mm repair tube flared at one end is inserted into the defective tube and mandrel boring is performed on a special stand (pushing through) tubes with steel mandrel 7.5+0,05 mm along the entire length of the tube. Then, on a stand for expanding tubes, the repair tube is expanded simultaneously from both ends. The radiator is assembled and checked for leaks.
It is permissible to muffle no more than 1.5% of the cooling tubes (necessarily from both ends).
(The article is taken from the website: vazbook)
Checking and repairing the radiator (VAZ-1111)
This article is available at russian, bulgarian, belarusian, ukrainian, serbian, croatian, romanian, polish, slovak, hungarian
The text was reviewed by the specialist: Grigory Vologodtsev
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