After removing the radiator, check its tightness in a bath of water. To do this, the pipes are closed and compressed air is supplied into it at a pressure of 0.2 MPa. Immerse the radiator in water for at least 30 s. In this case, there should be no air etching. Tightness can be checked without removing the radiator from the car. To do this, with plugged pipes, the radiator is filled with water at a pressure of 0.2 MPa. There should be no leak.
In case of damage or leakage, the radiator is replaced or repaired. If the aluminum tube is damaged, the radiator is disassembled and the defective tube is drilled on the stand from both sides with an 8.5 mm drill to a depth of 25-30 mm. A repair tube 7.3-0.5 mm flared at one end is inserted into the defective tube and burnishing is performed on a special stand (punching) tubes with a steel mandrel 7.5+0,05 mm over the entire length of the tube. Then, on the tube expansion stand, the repair tube is expanded simultaneously from both ends. Assemble the radiator and check for leaks.
It is allowed to jam no more than 1.5% of cooling tubes (required from both ends).