1. Raise and place the front of the vehicle on stands. Remove the wheel.
Warnings! Brake the vehicle with the parking brake and place wheel chocks under the rear wheels («shoes»). Loosen and tighten the wheel bolts only with the vehicle on the ground. Bolt tightening torque 65–95 Nm (6.5–9.5 kgf·m).
2. Turn away a nut of fastening of the spherical hinge.
3. Using a puller, press the ball joint pin out of the lever.
4. Loosen the rear brace nut.
5. Turn away a fastening nut and disconnect a rack of the stabilizer of cross-section stability from the lever.
6. Turn away a nut of fastening of the lever to an arm of a body and take out a bolt.
7. Remove the lever from the extension.
8. Remove the special washer 1 and the package of shims 2 from the brace, counting their number (if they are installed). Mark the washers to later install them on the same side of the lever.
9. Signs of wear of the rubber-metal hinges of the lever are breaks, one-sided bulging of the rubber and delamination of the rubber from the metal bushing. Replacing rubber-to-metal linkage joints requires special tools and skill. Two options are recommended: either replace the lever assembly with joints, or, after removing the lever from the vehicle, have the joints replaced by a specialized workshop.
10. Install the new lever in the reverse order of removal. Set the adjusting washers in the same quantity, the chamfers on their inner diameters should be directed towards the stop collar of the brace.
After lowering the car to the ground, rock it hard several times. Tighten appropriate moments nuts for fastening the ball joint to the lever and fastening the lever to the body bracket - 80–96 Nm (8.0–9.6 kgf·m), nut for fastening the extension to the lever - 160–180 N·m (16.0–18.0 kgf·m), a nut of fastening of a rack of the stabilizer of cross stability to the lever - 42–52 N·m (4.2–5.2 kgf·m). After a run of 100 km, re-tighten these threaded connections to the required torque.