The engine will not start (VAZ-21099)

Problems with starting a car engine can be divided into two main groups depending on the degree of engine heating.

The engine is cold

At least 6 hours have passed since the engine was turned off at an outside air temperature of 20°C and at least 3 hours at –20°C, the oil temperature in the engine crankcase coincides with the ambient temperature and the carburetor air damper must be used to start the engine.


1. Open the hood.



2. Measure the oil level with the dipstick. It should be between the MAX and MIN marks.







3. Check the brake fluid and coolant levels. Both should be above the MIN mark.





4. Carefully inspect the engine and underhood space. Pay attention to leaks of gasoline, oil, brake and coolant. Make sure the electrical wiring is intact. Check the fit of the high-voltage wires on the ignition coil, the distributor cap, and the spark plugs.




5. If the car has been standing for several days, use the manual fuel pump lever to pump gasoline into the carburetor.

6. Without closing the hood (in case of rain or snowfall, close the hood), get behind the wheel.

Advice: It is better to close the hood after the engine starts working. Before this, it is advisable to inspect the engine again, make sure there are no leaks of fuel, oil, coolant, as well as extraneous sounds in its operation.

7. Pull the carburetor choke control handle all the way out.

8. Turn the ignition key and start the engine.

If the engine does not start, there are three main reasons:

• the starting system does not work;
• the ignition system does not work;
• the power supply system is not working.

Engine warm or hot

The oil temperature in the engine crankcase is higher than the ambient temperature and there is no need to use the carburetor air damper to start the engine.

1. Without touching the choke control handle, turn the ignition key and turn on the starter. Simultaneously with turning on the starter, begin to smoothly press the accelerator pedal until the engine starts.

If the engine does not start, there are three main reasons:

• the starting system does not work;
• the ignition system does not work;
• the power supply system is not working.

Malfunctions in the starting system

Malfunctions in the starting system manifest themselves in abnormal operation of the starter. Five main malfunctions of the starter can be distinguished:

1. The starter does not turn on. The reason is a violation of contact connections, a break or short circuit in the starter circuits, a malfunction of the additional starter relay, a malfunction of the traction relay.

2. When the starter is turned on, multiple clicks are heard. The reason is a faulty holding winding of the traction relay, the battery is very discharged, and the contact connections in the starter circuit are loose.

3. The starter engages, but its anchor either does not rotate or rotates slowly. The reason is a discharged battery, broken contact connections, burnt contacts of the traction relay, contaminated collector or worn brushes, interturn or short circuit in the windings.

4. The starter turns on, its anchor rotates, but the flywheel remains stationary. The reason is a loose starter mount to the clutch housing, damage to the flywheel teeth or drive gear, slipping of the freewheel clutch, breakage of the lever, drive ring or buffer spring of the starter drive.

5. The starter does not turn off after the engine starts. The reason is a malfunction of the starter freewheel clutch, sintering of the traction relay contacts. In case of such a malfunction, stop the engine immediately!

6. The above mentioned faults require qualified intervention from car service specialists. The only preliminary steps you can take are to check the battery discharge level using a voltmeter on the instrument panel and the tightness of the contact connections in the starter circuit.

Checking the ignition system

Your vehicle has a high-energy contactless ignition system. The high-voltage wires carry about 40,000 volts of voltage, and although the low current is not life-threatening, a possible electric shock when testing the ignition system can lead to serious consequences. Therefore, if you handle a high-voltage wire with the ignition on, use a thick rubber glove or, as a last resort, pliers with insulated handles.

Before checking the ignition system, set the gearshift lever to neutral and leave the parking brake ("handbrake") on.

To check, you will need screwdrivers - slotted and Phillips, pliers with insulated handles and a tester or a 12 V test lamp with two wires connected to it. You can also use a car "portable" if you have one.





1. With the ignition off, check the integrity and fit of the high-voltage wires in the distributor cap, as well as the fit of the high-voltage wire in the ignition coil.

Advice: At the first opportunity, move the ignition coil from its standard location to the cup of the left front pillar (see dotted arrow). The coil will be less flooded with water when driving through deep puddles and access to it will be easier.

2. Check the wires from the distributor to the ignition switch and their connections. Also check the wires connecting the ignition switch and the ignition coil.



3. Turn on the ignition. Check if the ignition system is receiving current. Connect one wire of the tester or test lamp to the terminal "B" of the coil, and the other to the "ground".

Voltage over 11V? (Is the indicator light on?)

Yes: see point 5.

4. There is a fault in the ignition switch or in the wiring from the switch to the coil. In order to get to the nearest car service, you can supply emergency power to the ignition system. To do this, connect the "B" terminal of the ignition coil and the "+" terminal of the battery with an additional wire. Secure the wires securely. Keep in mind that now, in order to turn off the engine, you will need to disconnect the additional wire from the "+" of the battery.

Warning! If you notice strong sparking when connecting to the "+" terminal of the battery, you will have to abandon this method - most likely, the wiring is shorting to ground.

5. Remove the central wire from the distributor cap. Insert a spare spark plug into the tip of the wire and press its metal part to the car's ground. Turn the engine crankshaft with the starter. Be sure to use a thick rubber glove or pliers with insulated handles.

Warnings!

• Never test the ignition system for a "spark" between the tip of the wire and the ground, this can lead to serious damage to the switch.
• Do not remove the battery terminals or the connector from the switch while the engine is running.

Is there a spark between the spark plug electrodes?

Yes: see point 7.

6. There may be a fault in the switch, the Hall sensor in the distributor, or the ignition coil.





7. Remove the distributor cap by unscrewing the two screws. Carefully inspect the distributor cap from the outside and inside for damage (cracks, chips, destruction of the carbon contact inside the cover).

Is there any damage?

No: see point 9.

8. Replace the cover.



9. Check if the distributor rotor (runner) is damaged. Sometimes the interference suppression resistance in the rotor fails. There are also cases of breakdown of the rotor housing "to ground".

At the same time, turn the engine crankshaft with the starter.

Warning! If the distributor rotor does not rotate when the engine is turned over by the starter, contact a car service center. The timing belt may be broken or the distributor drive may be faulty.

In doubt? Replace the rotor.

Tip: The resistance can be temporarily replaced with a spring from a ballpoint pen.

10. Once again, taking precautions, check for spark. Try to start the engine.

Did the engine start?

No: see point 12.

11. Have a nice trip!



12. Check for spark at the spark plugs. Remove the high-voltage wire from any spark plug. Insert a spare spark plug into the tip of the wire and press the metal part of it to the car's ground. Be sure to use a thick rubber glove or pliers with insulated handles. Turn the engine crankshaft with the starter.

Is there a spark?

No: see point 14.

13. Replace the spark plugs with new ones. You can try to install not new ones, but tested ones, as they say, from a working car.

14. Replace the high-voltage wires with new ones. You can try to install not new ones, but tested ones, "from a working machine".

Checking the fuel system of a carburetor engine

You will need

• screwdrivers - slotted and cross-head
• spanners (better throw-on ones) on "8", "10", "13"
• empty plastic bottle
• compressor or air pump
• rag

Attention! When checking the power supply system, do not smoke or use open fire under any circumstances!

1. Remove the air filter housing cover by unscrewing the nut with a 10 mm wrench and unfastening the spring clips.



Remove the air filter. Unscrew the four nuts with an "8" wrench, use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp of the crankcase ventilation hose where it connects to the valve cover and remove the air filter housing.



2. Look inside the carburetor. The primary air damper should be completely closed if the engine cold, and is fully open if the engine warm or hot. In the first case, open the air damper. Press the carburetor throttle actuator with your hand.

Is there a trickle of gasoline coming from the accelerator pump nozzle?

No: see point 4

3. There may be gasoline in the carburetor. Get behind the wheel, smoothly press the gas pedal, turn on the starter and start the engine.



4. In order to be completely sure that there is gasoline in the carburetor, it is necessary to unscrew the five screws that secure the top cover of the carburetor, the screw that secures the bracket for the air damper control cable sheath, and remove the wire from the idle speed electromagnetic valve.



Very carefully, without allowing lateral movement, lift the carburetor cover.



5. Look inside. The petrol level should be approximately 22-23 mm below the joint between the cap and the carburetor body.

Is the level normal?

No: see point 7.

6. Put the carburetor cover back in place and tighten it with 2-3 screws diagonally. Get behind the wheel, smoothly pressing the gas pedal, turn on the starter and start the engine.



7. Put the carburetor cover back in place without securing it. Carefully insert a screwdriver into the cover and housing connector. Try pumping gasoline manually. If this does not work, turn the crankshaft a little with the starter and try again. If the carburetor starts to fill up with gasoline intensively, put the carburetor cover back in place and press it with 2-3 screws diagonally. Try starting the engine. If the engine starts, contact a car service - the carburetor needle valve is stuck.



8. If you cannot pump gasoline manually, assemble the carburetor and use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp on the rubber hose that supplies gasoline to the carburetor. Twist the hose from side to side until it comes off the carburetor nipple. Place the end of the hose in an empty plastic bottle to avoid flooding the engine with gasoline. Press the manual fuel pump lever. Turn the engine shaft slightly with the starter and try again.

Is gasoline supplied from a hose?

No: see point 10



9. Using a 13 mm spanner, unscrew the carburetor fine filter holder.



Carefully, being careful not to damage it, remove the fine filter from the carburetor cover.

Warning! Do not lose the copper sealing ring!

Carefully inspect the filter. If it is clogged with dirt, replace it or, as a last resort, try washing it with gasoline and blowing it out with compressed air.

10. There are three possible reasons:

• a) the fuel pump is not working;
• b) fuel pump drive malfunction;
• c) no fuel is coming from the gas tank, the fuel line from the fuel tank is clogged with dirt or frozen (in winter).

To troubleshoot contact a car service.

The original source is published on the website: VazBook