Secondary shaft of the gearbox in assembly: 1 – secondary shaft; 2 – synchronizer of 1st and 2nd gears; 3 – 3rd gear pinion; 4 – 4th gear pinion; 5 – rear shaft bearing; 6 – synchronizer of 3rd and 4th gears; 7 – 2nd gear pinion; 8 – 1st gear pinion; 9 – inner ring of the front shaft bearing
You will need:
- key "for 32"
- bearing pressing mandrel
- two screwdrivers
- beard
- hammer
1. To disassemble the secondary shaft, it is necessary to unscrew the nut on its rear end, which is tightened with a large torque. To do this, install the primary and secondary shafts in the clutch housing...
2....engage 4th gear, then...
3....2nd gear...
4....install the gearbox housing and tighten the three housing mounting bolts evenly around the perimeter...
5....punch the secondary shaft nut and...
6....holding the gearbox from moving, unscrew the secondary shaft nut. If necessary, unscrew the primary shaft nut.
7. Clamp the secondary shaft in a vice with soft metal jaws and use two large screwdrivers to press out the rear bearing.
8. Remove the bearing from the shaft. Note that it is installed on the shaft with the groove for the retaining ring towards the end of the shaft.
9. Remove the thrust washer.
10. Remove the 4th gear pinion. Note that the cone on the pinion is facing the synchronizer.
(Information copied from the portal: www.vazbook.ru)
11. Remove the 4th gear needle bearing.
12. Mark the position of the locking ring relative to the synchronizer clutch. During operation, the teeth of the ring are worn to the teeth of the clutch, so during assembly the ring must be installed in the same position.
13. Remove the 4th gear synchronizer locking ring.
14. Using a puller, press the 3rd and 4th gear synchronizer and needle bearing bushing off the shaft.
15. Remove the needle bearing bushing and...
16....synchronizer with 3rd gear locking ring. Note: the notches on the synchronizer sleeve are directed towards the 3rd gear pinion.
17. Mark the position of the ring relative to the synchronizer sleeve.
18. Remove the 3rd gear pinion. Note that the cone on the pinion faces the synchronizer.
19. Remove the 3rd gear needle bearing.
20. Using a hammer blow to the end of the shaft through a wooden lining, press the 3rd gear needle bearing bushing off the shaft (first, slightly spread the jaws of the vice).
21. Remove the 3rd gear needle bearing bushing...
22....a thrust washer and...
23....the 2nd gear pinion from the shaft. Note that the cone on the pinion is directed towards the synchronizer.
24. Remove the 2nd gear needle bearing.
25. Using a hammer blow through a wooden block, press the 1st and 2nd gear synchronizer and the 2nd gear needle bearing sleeve off the shaft.
26. Remove the 2nd gear needle bearing bushing...
27....2nd gear synchronizer locking ring (having previously marked the position of the ring relative to the coupling) and...
28....synchronizer with 1st gear locking ring. Note that the notches on the synchronizer sleeve are directed towards the 1st gear pinion. Mark the position of the ring relative to the synchronizer sleeve.
29. Remove the 1st gear pinion from the shaft. Note that the cone on the pinion is facing the synchronizer.
30. Remove the 1st gear needle bearing.
31. If necessary, turn the shaft over and press off the inner race of the secondary shaft front roller bearing.
32. Thoroughly clean, rinse and dry the secondary shaft parts.
33. Check the condition of the shaft. If there are signs of wear on the bearing journals, the shaft must be replaced.
34. Check the condition of the gears. If there are chips or chipping of the teeth, scoring on the inner surfaces or signs of wear on the working surfaces of the teeth, replace the gears.
35. Replace gears that have significant dents or chips on the ends of the spline teeth.
36. Check the ease of rotation of the bearing. If the raceways or balls are damaged, or if play is detected in the bearing (the radial clearance in it should not exceed 0.04 mm) replace the bearing.
37. Check the condition of the synchronizer locking rings. If there are nicks and chips on the toothed rims or significant wear on the cones, replace the locking rings.
38. Check the clearance between the gears and the corresponding locking rings. To do this, "grind" by pressing firmly and turning the locking ring several times against the gear cone, and...
39....measure the gap with a flat feeler gauge. The minimum allowable gap is 0.6 mm. If it is less, the locking ring must be replaced.
40. After replacing the locking ring, also check the gap between the new ring and the gear. Rock the ring - play is unacceptable.
41. Check the condition of the thrust rings. If scoring or deformation is detected, replace the rings.
42. Before assembling the secondary shaft, clean the oil passages.
43. Using a suitable mandrel, press the front bearing inner race until it stops.
44. Assemble the secondary shaft in the reverse order of removal. Press the secondary shaft parts until they stop using a punch, applying force evenly around the entire circumference.
45. Install the old locking rings according to the marks made earlier. Install the new rings so that the small protrusions on the ring (there are no teeth opposite them) coincided with the grooves of the synchronizer hub in the places where the clamps were installed.
46. Press the rear shaft bearing on using a suitable mandrel, applying force only to the inner bearing race.
47. After assembly, check the operation of the synchronizers. To do this, manually move the synchronizer clutches to the position of engaging the corresponding gears. Finally tighten and lock the rear shaft bearing nut (see operations 1–4).