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VAZ-2101 (1970-1983) VAZ-21011 (1974-1983)
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  • VAZ-2101
  • General information
  • Main malfunctions
  • Body damage

Body damage (VAZ-2101)

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The body of a modern passenger car is its most complex part, to which numerous requirements are imposed. It is the silhouette of the car, it is information about the level of automobile production, its technical capabilities, it is the harmony of form and color, decorative design, a noble protector, capable of taking the main force of the blow in moments of danger and saving the life and health of the driver and passengers sitting in it.

Being the bearer of such high merits, the body requires a lot of attention. And it deserves it. The body is very vulnerable. Any road accident almost always leaves its mark on it. How many different dramatic stories could be told by dented, warped bodies. But time passes, the wounds heal, and the car hits the road again.

Often, in traffic accidents, the damaged parts are the doors, hood, trunk lid, bumpers, glass, electrical equipment, i.e. removable units and parts. Replacing deformed parts with new ones is quite possible for anyone who wants to. In most cases, no special equipment, knowledge or skills are required to perform such work. You just have to decide once and try to remove small dents and deep scratches with your own hands: straighten, putty and paint. There are many places on the body where the surface is without bends or roundings, where it is easy to get to and where a dent or scratch just appeared. You should start your "universities" with such simple defects.

The main faults of the body can be divided into the following types: deformation of the mounted parts and units, faults in the operation of the fittings (locks, window lifters, limiters), dents and scratches on body panels and paint defects.



Car doors



The degree of damage to any of the side doors of VAZ cars may vary, and therefore the required amount of work should also be different. If the door needs to be replaced, then you can first disassemble it, and only then remove it, or vice versa. Repair of fittings is carried out on the door without removing it. To paint one door (this applies equally to other attachments), there is no need to remove it either.

To learn how to repair door fittings, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with their internal structure. Disassembly should be done in the following order:
  • unscrew the screws 5 securing the armrest (Fig. 74) and remove it. On VAZ-2103 vehicles, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2121 first you need to remove the decorative plug that hides one of the screws;
  • remove handle 1 or 7 of the window lifter, for which you need to press the socket and use a device or a thin screwdriver to remove the locking spring, then remove the socket and gasket. On VAZ-2105 and -2107 cars, you need to slightly recess the socket, move the trim along the handle until it comes out of the annular groove on the axis and only then remove the handle;
  • on VAZ-2105 and VAZ-2107 vehicles, remove button 2 of the lock, having first removed the button cap with a sharp tool and taken out the bracket connecting it to the rod; on all other models of VAZ cars, unscrew the button 3 of the lock;
  • remove the trim 6 of the inner handle of the lock drive, using a screwdriver;
  • remove the upholstery of 4 doors, overcoming the resistance of the spring plastic holders. Remember, the holders are single-use, but their services can be used again if you exercise caution and skill when removing them;
  • while the lowering glass 4 (Fig. 75) is at the top, it is necessary to remove the grooves 8 and 17, and only after this lower the glass down;
  • remove seal 5 or 19 of the drop glass;
  • remove the rotary glass 3 and the plug 18 of the window with the rear-view mirror;
  • remove trim 9, edging 1 and seal 2 of the drop glass, as well as trim 16 of the window frame for VAZ-2103, VAZ-2106 vehicles;
  • remove the clamps and dust covers; remove rear seal 6 of the lowering glass; loosen the nut of the tension roller 14 or 23 of the window lifter, disconnect the cable 11 from the clamp 7 or brackets 21 of the lowering glass 4 or 20, release the cable holder, remove the cable from the rollers 12, 13, 14 or 22, 23, lower the glass down and, bending its lower edge towards you, remove it through the lower opening of the door 10. On VAZ-2105 and VAZ-2107 cars, the glass is removed through the top;
  • unscrew the nuts and remove the window lift mechanism 15;
  • unscrew button 2 or 3 (see fig. 74) lock locks 4 (rice, 76, a);
  • using an 8 mm spanner and a screwdriver, disconnect rod 3 from the lock and remove outer handle 1;
  • using a Phillips screwdriver, disconnect the inner door handle 5 from the inner panel, remove the lock 4 assembly with the lock rod 2, the inner handle and the lock drive rod;
  • remove the door opening limiter using a 10mm socket wrench, pliers, hammer and punch;
  • remove the door light from VAZ-2103, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107 cars;
  • remove the bundle of wires with staples (for cars VAZ-2103, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107);
  • remove the door trim panel with pins (for VAZ-2103, VAZ-2106 cars).

The original is on the portal [VAZbook.ru]


When assembling the doors, follow the reverse sequence of disassembly. Don't forget to lubricate the window lift cable as well (litol-24 grease), axes of rotation of the upper rollers 13 and 22 (see fig. 75), using the same Litol-24, adjust the operation of the window lift.

When assembling the doors, follow the reverse sequence of disassembly. Don't forget to lubricate…


When assembling the doors, follow the reverse sequence of disassembly. Don't forget to lubricate…


When assembling the doors, follow the reverse sequence of disassembly. Don't forget to lubricate…


Having familiarized yourself with the door fittings, you can competently begin to eliminate any faults that arise. Here are the most common ones:

1. The glass is not fixed in the specified position.

The defect is possible in two cases: if the brake spring of mechanism 15 has broken (see fig. 75) window lifter (in this case the window regulator is changed) and if the window glass mount on the cable has become loose (in this case, adjust the correct position of the glass and tighten the screws of the cable holder).

2. The door does not lock.

The doors will lock securely when there is no play in the lever axles, no bending of the rods, and no dirt on the rubbing surfaces of the lock.

If the door does not lock, the lock must be removed and carefully inspected, paying attention to the quality of the rivet of the lever axis of the external drive of the lock. If the rivet is loosened, the lever tooth may not engage with the ratchet (axial displacement of the ratchet). Having discovered that this is indeed the cause of the malfunction, it is necessary to securely rivet the axle.

Sometimes the cause is a broken spring of the outer drive lever. In this case, the lock must be replaced.

It happens that the cause of the malfunction is dirt on the rubbing surfaces of the lock. The lock should be washed in kerosene or gasoline, and then lubricate the rubbing surfaces with grease, preferably CIATIM-221.

3. The door is not locked by the button.

The malfunction most often occurs after installation work (rearrangement of the lock, etc.) or when closing the door with great force. In both cases, deformation is possible (curvature) traction. The defect is eliminated by straightening the traction.

The lock may not work if the rubbing surfaces of the lock are heavily contaminated. The defect is eliminated by washing and lubricating the lock.

Sometimes the key moves the cylinder in the front door lock with difficulty. In this case, the button of the locking device usually gets stuck. Most often, the reason is the skewing of the leash due to the presence of an excessive gap between the cylinder 1 (fig. 76, b) and a leash.

Car enthusiasts eliminate this defect as follows: having removed the door trim, disconnect the rod 4, knock out the pin 5 and remove the leash 6. Between it and the washer 2, install an additional washer 3 of a thickness equal to the existing gap.

4. The door does not open with the outside handle.

This malfunction is possible if the connection of the rod 3 has become loose (see fig. 76, a) external handle with the lock drive lever. If you tighten the rod mounting screw, the defect disappears.

5. When turning the inside handle, the door does not open completely.

The malfunction occurs due to the stroke of the drive lever (low speed) traction. To eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to adjust the position of the inner handle 5 (see fig. 76, a) with a pull rod. To do this, loosen the screws that secure the handle bracket, move the handle together with the bracket to the desired position and tighten the screws.

It often happens that it is necessary to replace the door. The main thing in this case is to have a new door. Everything else can be done independently if desired. This also applies to all other mounted parts: the hood, the trunk lid. It is advisable to have a new door in advance (before subassembly and installation on the body) paint. Then disassemble the old door and remove it from the body, for which: disconnect the door stop from the pillar, knocking out the pin securing the stop, and, holding the door in the open position, unscrew the screws securing the door hinges to the body pillars. It should be warned: to unscrew these screws, you need a powerful screwdriver with a T-shaped handle or an impact drill-screwdriver. Carefully install the painted door in place of the deformed one. Subassembly is carried out in the reverse order of disassembly, but taking into account the following:
  • when placing the cable on the rollers and securing the window lift mechanism, make sure that the turns of the cable on the drum do not overlap each other;
  • initially tightening the roller nut 14 (see fig. 75, a), adjust the cable tension by moving the roller, and then finally tighten the nut.

After installing and assembling the new door, be sure to adjust the operation of the lock (if required) as follows:
  • just in case (for memory) outline the outline of the retainer on the center pillar;
  • loosen the retainer, move it outward and tighten the bolts.

This is done when the door closes too tightly. If it closes loosely, move the latch inward. The latch must be raised higher than its original position if the door drops when closing, and moved downward if the door rises when closing.

If you look closely at the VAZ cars passing by, you can see cars with equally deformed front doors. The reason for such deformation is a door limiter that has failed. To avoid such a dent, it is necessary to urgently replace the limiter.

Unable to buy a new limiter, one of the Moscow car enthusiasts quite correctly decided that the left rear door opens the least, which means that its limiter can be moved to the front left. Then he repaired the limiter that failed and installed it on the left rear door.

The technology for repairing the limiter is as follows:
  • insert the broken ends into tube 5 (Fig. 77) with an internal diameter of 6 mm;
  • put the limiter 2 on the roller 3 and tie it with wire 4;
  • having installed the repaired limiter in place, spread its ends with insert 1, made of wood or hard rubber.

having installed the repaired limiter in place, spread its ends with insert 1, made of wood or hard…


Doors (this applies equally to both the hood and the trunk lid) should be located in openings with uniform gaps around the perimeter. This is important not only for aesthetic perception. This ensures the tightness and quality of the locks.

Doors (this applies equally to both the hood and the trunk lid) should be located in openings with…


Between the mating parts of the body in the sections indicated in Fig. 78, there are certain standardized gaps (mm):

Between the mating parts of the body in the sections indicated in Fig. 78, there are certain…

If it is necessary to replace the rear door of VAZ-2102 and VAZ-2121 cars, disconnect the stops from the door and unscrew the nuts that secure the door to the hinges. To position the door evenly in the opening, use the oval holes for the hinge pins.


This article is available at russian, bulgarian, belarusian, ukrainian, serbian, croatian, romanian, polish, slovak, hungarian
The text was reviewed by the specialist: Grigory Vologodtsev

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Previous articles
VAZ-2101: Main malfunctions
Next articles

Lighting and light signaling faults
Horn malfunctions
Cooling system fan malfunctions
Heater motor malfunctions
Windscreen wiper motor malfunctions
Removal and installation seats
Removal of small dents and restoration of paintwork

More articles from other manuals on VAZ cars:
➠ Body frame and attachments VAZ-1111 (1988-1996)
➠ The structure of the car body VAZ-2104 and VAZ-2105 VAZ-2105 (1979-2010)
➠ The body structure of VAZ-2106 and VAZ-2103 cars VAZ-2106 (1976-2006)
➠ Car body care VAZ-2107 (1982-2012)
➠ Car body structure VAZ-2109 (1984-1997)
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VAZ-2101 (1970-1983) 
  • General information
  • Vehicle description
  • Vehicle device
  • Vehicle operation
  • Maintenance
  • Main malfunctions
  • Applications
  • Power unit
  • Engine repair
  • Cooling and lubrication system
  • Supply system
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Transmission
  • Cardan gear
  • Rear axle
  • Chassis
  • Front suspension
  • Rear suspension
  • Steering
  • Brake system
  • Body
  • Exterior
  • Interior
  • Electrical equipment
  • Engine electrics
  • Equipment and devices

 

VAZ-21011 (1974-1983) 
  • General information
  • Specifications
  • Operation and maintenance
  • Power unit
  • Engine repair
  • Cooling system
  • Lubrication system
  • Power and exhaust system
  • Ignition system
  • Engine electrics
  • Transmission
  • Clutch
  • Car gearbox
  • Cardan gear
  • Rear axle
  • Chassis
  • Car suspension
  • Steering
  • Brake system
  • Body
  • Exterior
  • Interior
  • Doors and locks
  • Electrical equipment
  • Equipment and devices
  • Lighting and signaling

 

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