In addition, it is not so easy to accurately determine the location of the leak. Sometimes oils and liquids leak more intensively at high temperatures, that is, when the car is moving, sometimes, on the contrary, they leak more strongly during long-term parking. It is difficult to get to individual connections through which leakage is possible, so you have to, armed with a portable lamp, literally track down «hidden enemy». One way to track may be a large sheet of white paper. Put it under the car and by the color of the stain, clarify something or at least find out what is leaking.
It is necessary to look especially carefully for the cause of leakage in the first 5 thousand km, that is, when the units are being run in. Then for the leaks comes «dead Season», and with the onset of aging of the hoses and loosening of the clamps, they reappear.
To combat leaks, arm yourself with: a screwdriver (preferably short), pliers, keys 8 mm, 10, 13 mm in size, cleaning material.
In order not to miss anything, inspect the car in this order (it is most convenient to do it on a flyover):
- A) fuel line from the fuel tank to the fuel pump and from it to the carburetor;
- b) brake fluid path (from the tanks of the main cylinders to the clutch slave cylinder and the wheel cylinders of the brakes of the front and rear wheels);
- V) all connections in the cooling system (expansion tank - radiator, radiator - cylinder block, radiator - thermostat, thermostat - cylinder block, cylinder block - heater, etc.);
- G) connections in the engine, gearbox, transfer case, cardan shafts, rear and front axles, shock absorbers.
Many motorists often confuse leakage with «sweating», i.e., the formation of oil stains and individual drops in the places of stuffing box seals. Such «streaks» not dangerous. If you find that there is still oil, gasoline or liquid penetration, eliminate it by tightening the mount with a tool prepared in advance.