In addition, it is not so easy to pinpoint the exact location of the leak. Sometimes oils and liquids leak more intensely at high temperatures, i.e. when the car is moving, sometimes, on the contrary, they leak more intensely when parked for a long time. It is difficult to get to individual connections through which leakage is possible, so you have to literally track down the "lurking enemy" armed with a portable lamp. One way to track down can be a large sheet of white paper. Place it under the car and by the color of the stain you will clarify something or at least find out what is leaking.
It is especially important to carefully look for the cause of leakage during the first 5 thousand km, i.e. when the units are being run in. Then the "dead season" for leaks begins, and with the beginning of the aging of the hoses and the weakening of the clamps, they appear again.
To combat leaks, arm yourself with: a screwdriver (preferably short), pliers, wrenches of 8 mm, 10, 13 mm, cleaning material.
To make sure you don't miss anything, inspect your car in this order (this is most conveniently done on an overpass):
- a) fuel line from the fuel tank to the fuel pump and from it to the carburetor;
- b) the path of the brake fluid (from the master cylinder reservoirs to the clutch slave cylinder and the front and rear wheel brake cylinders);
- c) all connections in the cooling system (expansion tank - radiator, radiator - cylinder block, radiator - thermostat, thermostat - cylinder block, cylinder block - heater, etc.);
- d) connections in the engine, gearbox, transfer case, cardan shafts, rear and front axles, shock absorbers.
The information is published on the website www.vazbook.ru
Many car enthusiasts often confuse leakage with "sweating", i.e. the formation of oil stains and individual drops in places of gland seals. Such "leaks" are not dangerous. If you find that oil, gasoline or liquid has penetrated, eliminate it by tightening the fastener with a tool prepared in advance.