Cause of malfunction
|
Elimination Method |
Knocking when touching
| |
The fastening of the elastic coupling to its flange on the secondary shaft of the gearbox and / or the flange of the intermediate shaft to the flange of the transfer case drive shaft has loosened
|
Tighten the fasteners, check the alignment of the transfer case relative to the gearbox (see Transfer case) |
The fastening of the flanges of the cardan shafts to the flanges of the transfer case and / or axle gearboxes has loosened
|
Tighten fasteners, replace worn self-locking nuts |
Wear of the spline connection of the cardan shaft with its flange or cardan joints (clatter)
|
Syringe the spline connections with SHRUS-4, Fiol-1 or Litol-24 grease. Replace worn cardan joints or cardan shaft assembly |
The gap in the gears of the main gear is large, their teeth are worn out
|
Adjust the backlash in the meshing of the gears. Replace worn gears |
The gap in the engagement of the gears of the final drive is broken due to the unscrewing of the shank nut
|
Tighten the nut to the recommended torque, install a new spacer if necessary |
Breakage of the rear suspension rods or their mounting brackets, destroyed silent blocks
|
Replace rods, weld brackets |
Loose wheel nuts
|
Tighten the nuts to the recommended torque |
Brake pads stuck or frozen to the drum
|
Not a malfunction. Do not use «handbrake» when the car is parked for a long time, especially in winter |
Detachment of the brake lining from the base of the shoe
|
Replace shoe (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Suspension spring failure
|
Replace spring (it is better to change both suspension springs at once - left and right) |
Faulty clutch
| |
Lost elasticity or collapsed support of the power unit or weakened their fastening
|
Replace supports, tighten fasteners |
Noise when driving on a flat road
| |
The bearings of the front or rear axle gearbox are worn out, their preload is broken, the landing is weakened (uniform noise from the bridge)
|
Replace worn bearings, spacer, adjust preload (see rear axle) |
The teeth of the final drive gears are worn out, the side clearance in the engagement is broken, the scuffing on the teeth: howling from the side of the front or rear axle, decreasing or disappearing when the load is reduced (when pedal is released «gas»)
|
Replace worn gears, adjust backlash |
Loose fastening of the driven gear to the differential box (gear runout)
|
Tighten threaded connections (thread sealant can be used), worn gears replace (couple) |
Wear of bearings of semiaxes or bearings of naves of forward wheels
|
Replace bearings |
Cardan shaft imbalance
|
Check that the circlips of the cross bearings are in place. Balance the driveline at the service station or replace |
Tires not designed for these operating conditions (on asphalt, studded tires, snow chains, etc. are used.)
|
Use tires according to their purpose |
High speed in corners
|
Slow down before turning. Adjust the angles of the front wheels, tire pressure |
Uneven wear or peeling of the tread, deformation of the tire, rim
|
Change wheel |
The wheel touches the fender liner or wheel arch (especially on a loaded car)
|
Check and adjust the wheel alignment angles, replace deformed suspension parts, sagging springs. Do not overload the vehicle. Use only stock wheels |
Brake parts touching the brake disc/drum
|
Disassemble the assembly, replace defective parts |
Loose wheel nuts
|
Tighten the nuts, if the rim is deformed, replace the rim |
Detachment of the brake lining from the base of the shoe
|
Replace shoe (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Malfunctions of the engine, clutch, gearbox
|
See relevant sections «Diagnostics» |
Howl, whistle from the trunk (cargo) on the roof
|
Slow down |
Knocks, squeaks when driving off-road
| |
The car is overloaded
|
Do not overload the vehicle. Distribute the load evenly (use salon) |
Shock absorbers are faulty, their fasteners are loose, rubber cushions are worn out
|
Replace shock absorber (better both at the same time on the same axis), rubber cushions |
Destruction of the suspension buffer (front or back) or additional upper buffer (rear)
|
Replace Buffer/Buffers |
Suspension spring settling or failure
|
Replace spring (it is better to change both springs at once - left and right) |
Breakage of the rear suspension rods or their mounting brackets, destroyed silent blocks
|
Replace rods, weld brackets |
Incorrectly mounted or deformed exhaust system
|
Replace the exhaust system or change the position of its parts (based on suspension travel) |
Front suspension ball joints worn or not lubricated
|
After hanging the front wheels, make sure that the ball pins move freely. Put fresh SRB-4 grease in the covers |
Worn or destroyed silent blocks of the front suspension
|
Replace silent blocks |
Loose lower and/or upper arm axles
|
Tighten threaded connections |
Weak fastening of the front suspension cross member to the side members of the body
|
Tighten threaded connections |
The fastening of the steering wheel on the shaft, the steering column to the bracket, the steering gear housing and the pendulum lever bracket to the body side members are loose
|
Tighten threaded connections |
Knocking in the steering mechanism: severe wear or destruction of the working surfaces of the worm and roller, pendulum arm bushings, engagement gap not adjusted, no oil in the steering gear housing
|
Replace the worn assembly, adjust the gap in the meshing of the roller and the worm, add oil |
Bent suspension components (control arms, stabilizer bar), tie rods. Loose suspension parts
|
Deformed parts straighten or replace. Tighten threaded connections |
Broken or lost rubber cushions for mounting the exhaust system, clamp for attaching the exhaust pipe to the bracket on the gearbox
|
Install new cushions |
Lost elasticity or collapsed power unit supports
|
Replace supports |
Loose fastening of the axle shaft and brake shield to the rear axle beam
|
Tighten threaded connections |
High tire pressure
|
Set normal pressure |
Noise, creak, clicks from the rear axle when turning the car
or if one of the wheels slips
| |
Loose wheel nuts
|
Tighten the nuts, if the rim is deformed, replace the rim |
Worn or chipped teeth of planet gears or side gears
|
Replace worn or broken parts |
Stiff rotation of satellites on the axle or the axle itself in the differential housing
|
Clean the burrs on the axis and in the holes of the satellites with a needle file, replace worn and deformed parts |
Spherical wear (internal) surface of differential housing
|
Replace differential housing or differential assembly |
Seizure of semi-axial gears in the differential housing
|
Replace worn and deformed parts. By selecting support washers, set the axial clearance of the gears to 0-0.10 mm, controlling the moment of resistance to rotation (see Transfer case) |
Large axial clearance of the axle drive gears in the differential case
|
By selecting shims, set the axial clearance of the gears to 0-0.10 mm, controlling the moment of resistance to rotation (see Transfer case) |
Axle bearing wear
|
Replace half shaft |
Suspension spring failure
|
Replace spring (it is better to change both suspension springs at once - left and right) |
Breakage of the rear suspension rods or their mounting brackets, destroyed silent blocks
|
Replace rods, weld brackets |
Noise, creak, clicks from the front axle when turning the car
or if one of the wheels slips
| |
Loose wheel nuts
|
Tighten the nuts, if the rim is deformed, replace the rim |
Wear of the outer (less often internal) hinge
|
Replace Hinge |
Deformation of the front wheel drive shaft
|
Replace shaft or drive assembly |
Increased axial play of the wheel (severe wear on the front wheel bearings or loose hub nut)
|
Tighten wheel hub nut, replace bearings if necessary |
Wheel touches fender liner (especially on a loaded car)
|
Check and adjust the wheel alignment angles, replace deformed suspension parts, sagging springs. Do not overload the vehicle. Use only stock wheels |
Suspension spring failure
|
Replace spring (it is better to change both suspension springs at once - left and right) |
Front suspension ball joints worn or not lubricated
|
After hanging the front wheels, make sure that the ball pins move freely. Put fresh SRB-4 grease in the covers |
Worn or destroyed silent blocks of the front suspension
|
Replace silent blocks |
Loose lower and/or upper arm axles
|
Tighten threaded connections |
Weak fastening of the front suspension cross member to the side members of the body
|
Tighten threaded connections |
The fastening of the steering column to the bracket, the steering gear housing and the pendulum arm bracket to the side members of the body have loosened
|
Tighten threaded connections |
Knocking in the steering mechanism: severe wear or destruction of the working surfaces of the worm and roller, bipod shaft bushings, engagement clearance not adjusted, no oil in the steering gear housing
|
Replace the worn assembly, adjust the gap in the meshing of the roller and the worm, add oil |
Bent suspension components (control arms, stabilizer bar), tie rods
|
Replace deformed parts |
Vibration while driving
| |
Vibration from the floor in the area of the front seats
|
See Diagnostics of malfunctions of a distributing box and an intermediate shaft |
Vibration from the power unit
|
Cm. «Strong engine vibration» In chapter Engine Troubleshooting |
Increased front wheel imbalance, tire deformation or uneven wear, wheel disk deformation («beats» steering wheel)
|
Balance wheels, deformed or uneven tire wear, deformed rims - replace |
Severe imbalance of the rear wheels, tire deformation or uneven wear, deformation of the rim (car rear vibration)
|
Balance wheels, deformed or uneven tire wear, deformed rims - replace |
Deformation of the cardan shaft / shafts, loss of balancing weights (plates)
|
Have the driveline repaired by a workshop and then dynamically balanced or replaced |
Large play of the cross in the cardan joint, loss of the retaining ring from the fork of the joint
|
Check the presence of retaining rings in the grooves of the forks, the axial movement of the cross. Adjust play, replace worn parts |
Loose driveshaft flanges
|
Tighten threaded connections |
Tires not designed for these operating conditions (studded tires, snow chains, etc. are used on the highway.)
|
Use tires according to their purpose |
Uneven wear or peeling of the tread, deformation of the tire, rim
|
Change wheel |
Car rocking on the road
| |
Defective shock absorber
|
Replace shock absorber (better both at the same time on the same axis) |
Vibration when braking
| |
Deformation of the brake disc: its runout along the edge exceeds 0.15 mm
|
Replace disc (better as a couple) |
Increased axial play of the wheel (severe wear on the front wheel bearings or loose hub nut)
|
Tighten wheel hub nut, replace bearings if necessary |
Ovality of the brake drum
|
Turn or replace the drum |
Stuck piston in rear wheel cylinder
|
Replace cylinder |
Brake pad has peeled off the base
|
Replace shoe (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Weak or broken rear brake pad return spring
|
Replace spring |
Creaking, squealing when braking
| |
Limit wear of brake pads
|
Replace brake pads (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Inclusion of foreign particles in the lining material (sand)
|
Usually does not require intervention (can be cleaned with a wire brush) |
Poor quality lining material
|
Replace shoe (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Jamming of the front brake piston or caliper guide
|
Replace the cylinder block assembly, clean of dirt and lubricate the caliper guides with graphite grease |
Severe brake disc corrosion
|
Grind (chisel) or replace disk |
Brake pad has peeled off the base
|
Replace shoe (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Weak or broken rear brake pad return spring
|
Replace spring |
Wheel lock braking
|
Do not overbrake, use tires suitable for driving conditions |
Increased brake pedal travel
(pedal «soft» or «fails»)
| |
Air in the brake system, leakage of brake fluid through leaks in the hydraulic drive connections, damage to the cuffs in the main brake cylinder, pressure regulator, damage to the brake pipes and hoses
|
Inspect all lines, their threaded connections and cylinders, eliminate leaks. Restore the normal fluid level in the brake reservoir and bleed the system. If brake hoses are damaged (cracks, swelling or traces of brake fluid) – Replace hoses. If you suspect a defect in the brake master cylinder, replace it with a known good one |
The rubber cuffs of the cylinders are swollen due to the ingress of oil, gasoline, etc. into the brake fluid.
|
Replace cylinders, hoses, completely draining the brake fluid; flush the system with fresh fluid and bleed |
Overheating of the brake mechanisms
|
Let the brakes cool down. Check the thickness of the pads and brake discs. Use only brake fluid recommended by the manufacturer in the system. Replace brake fluid promptly |
Increased clearance between pads and drum (automatic gap adjustment does not work)
|
Replace wheel cylinder, bleed system |
Increased (more than 0.15 mm along the edge) brake disc runout
|
Replace disc |
One of the circuits of the working brake system does not work
|
Eliminate fluid leakage from the brake system, bleed the system |
Brake pedal travel within normal limits
(pedal «tough»), but the car slows down badly
| |
Lubrication of brake discs, drums, linings
|
Clean oily discs and drums, replace pads (in extreme cases, grind on emery). It is strictly forbidden to clean the pads with solvents! Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace axle shaft seal) |
An ice or salt crust has formed on the surface of the pads (winter); pads got wet
|
At the beginning of the movement, at low speed, check the brakes. In the rain and after driving through deep puddles, dry the brakes by lightly depressing the brake pedal |
Poor quality lining material
|
Replace pads (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Blockage of brake lines: tubes (due to dents) or hoses (due to swelling or delamination of the rubber)
|
Replace damaged tubes and hoses |
Jamming of the piston in the cylinder, pads in the caliper
|
Replace the cylinder, clean the contact surfaces of the pads and caliper, lubricate them with SHRUS-4 or graphite grease before installation |
Complete wear of the brake pads (grinding of brakes)
|
Replace brake pads (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Brake pad has peeled off the base
|
Replace shoe (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Pressure regulator drive misadjusted
|
Adjust drive (see Brake system) |
Defective pressure regulator
|
Replace Regulator |
The vacuum booster is faulty or the hose connecting the booster to the inlet pipe or receiver is leaking
|
Check the integrity of the hose, its fit on the fittings, tightness of the clamps. To check the amplifier: turn off the engine, press the brake pedal 5-8 times and, keeping the pedal depressed, start the engine. With a working amplifier, after starting the engine, the pedal should be noticeably «leave» forward. Replace defective amplifier |
Incomplete release of all wheels
| |
Incorrect position of the adjusting bolt relative to the cover of the vacuum booster
|
The end of the bolt should protrude 1.25-0.2 mm relative to the end of the cover |
The rubber cuffs of the cylinders are swollen due to the ingress of oil, gasoline, etc. into the brake fluid.
|
Replace cylinders, hoses, completely drain the brake fluid, flush the system with fresh fluid and pump |
Stuck master cylinder piston (due to corrosion, breakage of return springs, ingress of mechanical impurities into the liquid)
|
Replace master cylinder, bleed system |
Brake pedal sticking: broken or stretched return spring, severely worn, pedal bushings not lubricated, axle corrosion
|
Replace the defective spring, bushings, fill them with fresh grease Litol-24, Fiol-1U |
Braking one of the wheels
with the brake pedal released
| |
Jamming of the piston of the wheel cylinder
|
Replace cylinder block (rear cylinder) |
The rubber cuffs of the cylinders are swollen due to the ingress of oil, gasoline, etc. into the brake fluid.
|
Replace cylinders, hoses, completely drain the brake fluid, flush the system with fresh fluid and pump |
Blockage of brake lines: tubes (due to dents) or hoses (due to swelling or delamination of the rubber)
|
Replace damaged tubes and hoses |
Detachment of the lining of the rear brake pad
|
Replace shoe (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Weak or broken rear brake pad return spring
|
Replace spring |
Deformation of the spacer bar, misalignment of the pads due to deformation of the brake shields
|
Straighten or replace spacer bar, brake shields |
The parking brake is pulled, the cables are wedged in the shells
|
Adjust the tension of the cables, lubricate them with engine oil, if the sheath is damaged or the wires of the cable are frayed, and also in case of severe corrosion, replace them |
Poor parking brake
| |
Incorrect drive adjustment
|
Adjust drive |
Drive cable jammed in sheaths
|
Lubricate the cable with engine oil if the sheath is damaged or the cable wires are frayed, as well as in case of severe corrosion - replace them |
The return springs of the cable branches are compressed to the stop
|
Carefully cut 6-8 coils of spring (do not damage the cable!). If the rear brake pads are very worn, replace the pads |
Greased brake drums, linings
|
Clean oily discs and drums, replace pads (in extreme cases, grind on emery). It is strictly forbidden to clean the pads with solvents! Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace axle shaft seal) |
An ice or salt crust has formed on the surface of the pads (winter); pads got wet
|
At the beginning of the movement, at low speed, check the brakes. In the rain and after driving through deep puddles, dry the brakes by lightly depressing the brake pedal |
Complete wear of the brake pads (grinding of brakes)
|
Replace brake pads (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
When the parking brake lever is released, the wheels do not brake
| |
After a long parking of the car, the pads stuck (or frozen) to the drum
|
While pulling on the lever or cable, try to carefully (so as not to rip off the brake linings) turn the wheel. Check the ease of movement of the cable in the shells, the pistons in the wheel cylinders, the stiffness of the return springs of the parking brake cable and the return springs of the shoes. When parking the car, if possible, do not apply the brake, but shift into gear |
Incorrect drive adjustment
|
Adjust drive |
Drive cable jammed in sheaths
|
Lubricate the cable with engine oil if the sheath is damaged or the cable wires are frayed, as well as in case of severe corrosion - replace them |
Driving the vehicle away from straight ahead (on a flat road)
| |
Inconsistent air pressure in tires
|
Set normal pressure |
Violation of the angles of the front wheels
|
Adjust the angles |
Significant difference in tire wear
|
Replace worn tire |
Irregular settling or broken suspension springs
|
Replace both springs |
Deformed parts of the suspension and / or car body
|
Straighten or replace deformed body parts |
Displacement of the rear axle due to broken rods or brackets for their fastening
|
Replace rods, weld brackets |
Braking of the wheel due to jamming of the piston of the wheel cylinder
|
Replace cylinder block (rear cylinder) |
Braking of the rear wheel due to weakening or breakage of the return spring of the rear brake pads
|
Replace spring |
Blockage of brake lines: tubes (due to dents) or hoses (due to swelling or delamination of the rubber)
|
Replace damaged tubes and hoses |
Car pulling or skidding when braking
| |
Jamming of the piston of the wheel cylinder
|
Replace cylinder block (rear cylinder) |
Blockage of brake lines: tubes (due to dents) or hoses (due to swelling or delamination of the rubber)
|
Replace damaged tubes and hoses |
Wheel jamming due to delamination of the lining from the base of the brake shoe
|
Replace shoe (better at the same time all on the same axis) |
Lubrication of brake discs, drums, linings
|
Clean oily discs and drums, replace pads (in extreme cases, grind on emery). It is strictly forbidden to clean the pads with solvents! Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace axle shaft seal) |
An ice or salt crust has formed on the surface of the pads (winter); pads got wet
|
At the beginning of the movement, at low speed, check the brakes. In the rain and after driving through deep puddles, dry the brakes by lightly depressing the brake pedal |
Deformation of the brake disc: its edge runout exceeds 0.15 mm
|
Replace disc (better as a couple) |
Ovality of the brake drum
|
Turn or replace the drum |
Different pressure in the tires of the left and right wheels
|
Set normal pressure |
Significant difference in tire wear
|
Replace worn tire |
Unequal settlement of front suspension springs
|
Replace both springs |
Wheel alignment misaligned
|
Adjust wheel alignment |
Rapid tire tread wear
| |
Tire pressure out of range
|
Set normal pressure |
Front wheel alignment misaligned
|
Adjust wheel alignment |
High driving speed, starting off with wheel slip, braking «to yuz», cornering with skidding or drifting of wheels
|
Change your driving style. Check tire pressure, wheel alignment, condition of suspension parts more often |
Increased axial play of the wheel (severe wear of the front wheel bearings or loosening of the hub nut)
|
Tighten the wheel hub nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
Hit on the tread of materials aggressive towards rubber - bitumen, oil, gasoline, solvents, acids, etc.
|
Change tire |
Car overload
|
Do not overload the car |
Uneven tire tread wear
| |
Increased wheel imbalance
|
Balance the wheels |
Tire deformation, rim
|
Change wheel |
Different tire pressure
|
Set normal pressure |
Front wheel alignment misaligned
|
Adjust wheel alignment |
High speed in corners, their passage with skidding or drifting of wheels
|
Change your driving style. Check tire pressure, wheel alignment, condition of suspension parts more often |
Increased axial play of the wheel (severe wear of the front wheel bearings or loosening of the hub nut)
|
Tighten the wheel hub nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
Deterioration of hinges, deformation of suspension or body parts
|
Replace hinges, straighten or replace deformed suspension parts, spars, body panels |
Play in the steering (see also «Increased steering wheel play»)
|
Replace worn joints, tighten threaded connections, adjust the clearance between the gear and the rack in the steering mechanism |
Increased free
steering wheel travel
| |
The gap between the worm and the roller in the steering mechanism is large
|
Adjust the clearance, if adjustment is not possible, replace the steering gear |
Worn pendulum arm bushings
|
Replace bushings or swingarm |
Worn tie rod joints
|
Replace rods |
Weak fastenings of the steering gear housing and / or the pendulum arm bracket to the body side members, cracks in the side member
|
Tighten fasteners, repair or replace cracked spar |
Steering wheel is hard to turn
| |
Steering clearance not adjusted
|
Adjust gaps |
Nuts on surfaces, deformation of the worm and / or steering roller
|
Replace steering gear |
Pendulum arm bushings too tight, lack of lubrication
|
Adjust the tightening of the nut, lubricate the Litol-24 bushings and put grease in the cavity between them. To check the tightening torque of the nut, it is necessary to remove the swing arm bracket from the vehicle. The lever must rotate when a load of 1-2 kgf is applied to its end and must not rotate under its own weight |
Tie rod pins jammed
|
Replace rods |
Front wheel alignment misaligned
|
Adjust the angles |
Installed non-standard (wide) tires, offset wheels (ET), different from the recommended
| Use wheels and tires recommended by the manufacturer |
Low pressure in the tires of the front wheels
|
Set normal pressure |
Small car overrun
| |
Braking of one or more wheels
|
Cm. «Incomplete release of all wheels», «Braking of one of the wheels with the brake pedal released» |
Front wheel alignment misaligned
|
Adjust wheel alignment |
Low tire pressure
|
Set normal pressure |
The gearbox, transfer case, axle reducers are filled with oil of inappropriate viscosity
|
Change the oil to the one recommended in the owner's manual |
Oil leakage from axles
| |
Damaged or worn seals
|
Replace seals |
Seizures, risks on the surfaces of the shafts on which the seals work, shaft runout
|
Fill minor damage with a file and polish. A new oil seal can be a little (up to 1 mm) underpress (placing spacers if necessary), so that its edge works on the unworn part of the shaft. Replace deformed parts |
Increased crankcase pressure due to clogged breather
|
Clean or replace breather |
Plugs loose, gaskets damaged
|
Tighten plugs, replace damaged gaskets or put on sealant |
There are signs of grease on the hinge boot and/or front wheel drive shaft
| |
The protective cover of the hinge is damaged, its clamps are loose
|
Inspect the hinge, if there is play, replace it. If there is no play, and there is little dirt in the grease, without disassembling the hinge, remove as much grease as possible with a screwdriver and put in a new one (SHRUS-4). Replace damaged case, tighten (replace) clamps |
At the splined end of the cardan shaft
visible traces of grease
| |
The clip of the stuffing box of the spline connection of the cardan shaft has loosened (her petals unfurled)
|
Bend the petals of the clip or replace it, spray the connection with Fiol-1, Fiol-2U or SHRUS-4 grease |
Traces of grease are visible on the universal joint
| |
Worn or damaged universal joint bearing seals
|
Replace seal or universal joint assembly. When assembling into a hinge, put grease Fiol-1 or Fiol-2U |
There are leaks on the shock absorber
shock absorber fluid
| |
shock absorber fluid leak (due to wear of the stem gland, reservoir o-ring, nicks and damage to the stem chrome plating)
|
Minor «sweating» shock absorber at the top (if there are no leaks) while maintaining its characteristics is not a malfunction. You can check the shock absorbers on a special stand or - roughly - by swinging the car by the wing. No more than 1-2 damped vibrations of the car are allowed. In the event of significant fluid leakage and/or loss of efficiency (car rocking on the road) replace shock absorber
|