The upper and lower arms have a similar design: at the ends «forks» cylindrical lugs for rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks), and on the opposite side - a platform with three holes for mounting the ball joint. On the front branch of the upper arm there is a tide against which the rebound buffer rests at the maximum suspension travel, and on the lower arm there are four holes for attaching the lower spring support cup. The ball bearings of the upper and lower arms are interchangeable and unified with the upper ball bearings of the suspension of rear-wheel drive VAZs. The support is attached to the lever together with the anther and the pressure plate with three bolts with spring washers and nuts. The threaded ends of the pins of both the upper and lower supports are directed downwards and enter the taper holes of the steering knuckle. The pins are secured with self-locking nuts. Thus, the steering knuckle can be rotated about an axis passing through the centers of the pins of the ball bearings.
Suspension arms, in turn, can be rotated on axles within the range of rubber-metal hinges (limited by their elasticity). The upper arm axle has two holes and threads on both ends. Bolts pass through the holes, securing the axle to the suspension cross member. Washers are installed on the bolts between the axle and the cross member to adjust the camber angles and the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation of the wheels (see below). The threaded ends of the axle are included in the rubber-metal hinges of the lever. Washers are located on both sides of each hinge: the smaller (flat) - on the inside, large (bulge out) - from the outside. The self-locking nuts of the upper arm axle are finally tightened only when the suspension is compressed (on a loaded car), otherwise the hinge will not be installed correctly and will quickly fail.
The axis of the lower arm is a bolt passing through a bushing in the suspension cross member and rubber-metal hinges of the arm. Just like the upper, the lower pivots are tightened between two washers, but another thrust washer has been added between the inner washer and the bushing (thick), adjacent to the sleeve, and several adjusting (thin). The thickness of the package of washers is selected at the factory; when dismantling the suspension, it is necessary to remember their number and location. Change the number and location of the washers is permissible only if it is necessary to restore the geometry of the suspension (e.g. after an accident, cross member replacement, etc.). In this case, the distance between the outer washer and the flanging of the bushing of the rubber-metal hinge after tightening its nut should be within 3–7.5 mm. If it is not possible to adjust the pitch angle (see below) with serviceable suspension parts, you can transfer some of the washers from one end of the lever to the other.
The suspension crossbar is a curved steel tubular beam, to which forged steel brackets are welded on both sides. In the lower part of the bracket there is a bushing of the lower arm axle, and the upper part is made as a vertical platform with four pairs of holes for mounting bolts. The upper pair of bolts secures the upper arm axle to the cross member. The second from the top - tightens the engine mount bracket, cross member, spars and rebound buffer bracket. The third pair of bolts tightens the engine mount bracket, cross member and upper suspension spring mount. And, finally, the fourth - the cross member and the upper support of the suspension spring. For reliability, the fastening nuts of the upper support of the suspension spring, after tightening, are welded to the protruding threaded part of the bolts.
Two brackets with holes are also welded to the lower rear part of the cross member. Stretch marks are attached to them with bolts (steel rods), that increase the longitudinal rigidity of the structure. Rear (threaded) the ends of the stretch marks are attached to the bracket on the car body with two nuts and washers. When installing the brace, the inner nut is tightened until the washer touches the bracket, and the outer nut is tightened to the recommended torque.
The suspension spring rests on the lower insulating gasket and the upper support cup. A rubber gasket is installed between the upper support cup and the upper spring seat. The upper support is tightened with four bolts with a suspension cross member, two bolts with a body side member (welded into the spar) and one more - with a rebound buffer bracket (the latter is welded into the support itself). A compression buffer support post is also welded to the top spring seat (she is facing down). The compression buffer at the maximum suspension travel rests on the lower arm, the rebound buffer - on the tide on the upper arm. The lower support cup of the spring is attached to the lower arm with four bolts, nuts and spring washers. Brackets for fastening the lower end of the shock absorber and anti-roll bar are also welded to the lower cup (behind the spring). Since a rubber-metal hinge is pressed into the eye of the shock absorber, it is possible to tighten the bolt of its lower fastening only on the car under load. The upper end of the shock absorber is attached to the bracket on the car body through two rubber cushions with a nut and washers. It can be tightened in any suspension position.
The anti-roll bar is a curved spring steel bar. It reduces the roll of the car when cornering. Through rubber cushions pressed by steel clips, it is fixed at two points to the body and to the brackets on the lower support cups of the springs.
Suspension repair mainly consists of replacing worn and damaged parts. Pay special attention to the condition of the protective covers of the ball bearings (anthers). If they are torn, immediately replace the covers and grease, otherwise the support will quickly fail. The play in the upper support can be determined by rocking the wheel with the suspension compressed (to do this, place a 230 mm high block under the lower arm closer to the ball joint). To diagnose the condition of the lower hinge, remove the wheel and, after inserting the mounting blade between the steering knuckle and the support housing, create a variable load by feeling the movement of the support pin through the anther. Rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) replace if rubber bulges, tears, cracks or is heavily worn. When replacing springs, make sure they are of the same grade (class A - without marking, class B - with a black stripe on the outer surface of the turns, has a shorter length under load). It is allowed to install class A springs on the front suspension and class B on the rear, but not vice versa.